So I have a completely naked cylinder head ('67-'74 style). My basic plan is to up the CR and get the head to flow better and I'm looking for advice.

Budget is $400, but hoping to come in a little (or a lot) under if possible.

Like I said, the head is totally naked (expect spark plug tubes). So I'll need advice on valves, springs, rocker arm assembly, etc.

Suggestions for larger valves are greatly appreciated. I figure why not since the head will be in the shop and I need new valves anyway. What about hardened seats and pocket porting?

If a rocker arm assembly is going to be hard to find or terribly expensive, would the assembly in my '64-'66 head be able to be swapped (I would like to swap as few parts as possible)?

Goals:
1) Standard 87 octane pump gas
2) Either 9.5:1 or 9:1 static compression ratio (I'm willing to go lower if 9:1 is too much for 87 octane)
3) Get the head to flow better
4) Run well as a daily driver (and maybe occasional races)

Note: Not sure if this matters, but I currently have a Carter BBS, and will probably be using a BBD by the time the head comes back from the shop and is ready to go in.

Todo list:
1) Measure the cylinder head combustion chambers in cc (how precise does it need to be? do I measure 1 or all 6?)
2) Find a machinist. Tips on finding a good shop would be helpful, anybody have a good place near Marysville, WA?
3) Paint the head. Tips please! How important is it that the paint not be under the valve cover or in the water jacket and how to prevent this?
4) Buy all needed parts: studs, valves, springs, gaskets, etc.

So recommendations on parts (especially valves and springs) and also what work to have down on the head and finding a reputable shop are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

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'66 Dodge Dart

$400 isn't enough to pay the machine shop and buy valves, springs, retainers and valve gear.

Last head I had done about 2 years ago:

Serdi Valve Grind 6 cyl OHV $92.00
K-line bronze valve guides $48.00
Machine for hard seat $63.00
Surface head $36.00
additional milling (raise CR) $80.00
Clean and magnaflux head $25.00
Valve seats $11.40

Machine shop bill $355.40

Engnbldr valves alone bump you over $400. You still need springs, retainers, locks, gaskets, and rocker gear.

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Joshua

Thanks Josh, sounds like I need to revise my budget. Any ideas on what a more realistic budget could be? As you can probably tell I'm a little new to this.

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'66 Dodge Dart

Personally I'd assume around the $900 mark to be safe. Not sure but do you mean WA Australia? If so I've been using
Valiantspares.com.au and pentastarparts.com.au/sunshop and you might find some of the valves or springs your after on there.

I am planning to upgrade bigger valves think the standard upgrade is mentioned in a sticky but either way I was going 1.70" I and 1.44" on the exhaust.

Cheers.

WA, as in Washington (the state), USA. So if anybody knows of a good shop on the west side of the Cascades, I'd love to know.

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'66 Dodge Dart

Bud's Machine and Engine, in Lakewood, WA.

www.budsmachine.com

I take most of my machine work there. He recently rebuilt a head for me with a stock valve train but a significant mill to bump up the compression ratio. I believe the total, all in, was around $600. Not bad. However, Bud has a sign on the wall in his shop, "Fast, cheap, or well done. Pick two." And he means it.

Bud has been custom building motors since the 60s and has enough of a fan base to be building motors and shipping them to guys in Europe.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Just got my head back from my machinist...Grand total damage was $427 for the machine work...I bought the engine buildr valves and the spring set comes with retainers and locks.

For $427 in machine work to a stock 1976 head that was still stock:

Hot tank/Magnaflux

Install new hardened seats in the exhaust side.
Install 12 new valve guides.
Grind the seats, install valves and springs...etc...

Cut the head from 54cc chambers to 48 cc chambers, checked and confirmed by machinist (double checked tonight it's 48cc...)-it does help to let the machinist know the .0066" per cc rule and they can cut the correct amount off the head without massive labor charge to skim check and measure.

I'll port it tomorrow and get it on the zoom block...

-D.Idiot

When I bought the oversized stainless steel intake & exhaust valves with new guides from engnbldr it was $100.00 shipped.
This was only ~8 months ago.
Still have them sitting on my shelf awaiting on ($$$ & motivation) installation.

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1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-spd, Dana 60)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (4-spd, 8.75")
1973 Plymouth Duster (225, auto, 8.25")
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 2wd (5.9L, auto, Dana 60)

Thanks everybody for the nice break downs on general pricing!

Question on springs. I have the originals, but they were sitting for a while and look a bit corroded. Is it worth it to get new springs or should I clean them up and call it good? If I do end up replacing them, are there any recommendations?

I was also wondering what the standard upgrade is as far as valve sizes?

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'66 Dodge Dart

engnbldr also has good slant springs for only $47.80 shipped.

Standard upgrade size on the valves are 1.70" (I) & 1.44" (E).

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1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-spd, Dana 60)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (4-spd, 8.75")
1973 Plymouth Duster (225, auto, 8.25")
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 2wd (5.9L, auto, Dana 60)