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 Post subject: ClanK Clank, Knock Knock
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:57 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
Car Model:
1961 Dodge D100 shorty. It has 57,000 mile and is a one owner.

Hey, this is almost funny. I pulled the sweet running 170 cu in. out to paint it. This allowed me to clean up the firewall and repaint it also.

The cartridge was filthy from truck not having run, also hi miles between changes.

I cleaned the base of filter and it was sludgy.

Put engine back in. Yes it took a lot of cranking with spark plugs removed to get oil pressure pumped to allow start.

After oil reached pressure I started it up. It had a deep knock..

I have heard many rod knocks in my hot rodding days centurys ago, so I was upset. All that work and oil sludge caused ,.. rod bearing to turn. @#+*^!!!

I came back a few days later to prepare to pull engine and put in my poly 318. Before this decision to take place I wanted to assure myself it was infact a rod bearing.

I started it and with it knocking, while it is still holding 40 pounds oil pressure prior to warming oil and block.

So I pull off the oil fill cover out of the the valve cover and the knock increased in volume.

Wow this could be good news I thought.
It was,!! The valve cover was taken off for painting. When putting it back on I can only assumed I re-tightened it which made it come too close to valve set screw. Valve set srew was tapping the valve cover.!! Very Barritone. LOL

gl/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:41 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Do you have some type of special valve cover on this engine... most factory covers have lots of room between the adjustment screws and cover. :?
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:15 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
Before i got shorter pushrods my adjusters used to hit the breather baffle on my stock 65 valve cover.

....it is unnerving......

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Image


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 Post subject: Valve Sinking?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:38 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
Car Model:
This particular hit is like someone said above as it is upon the extra baffle area.

I notted that the adjuster nut that was hitting baffle had about one eighth of an inch more threads exposed. **
(Exhaust valve adjuster nut closest to radiator # 1. )

** That concerned me about a valve sinking.? The adjuster and the subject push rod are the same length as all the others. Valves are adjusted properly.

Compression when last checked was very good. Runs smooth as can be.

Anyone else on Valve sinking thought.? Gl/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:12 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
Posts: 187
Location: northern NJ, USA
Car Model:
The exhaust valves will recede into the head if you run unleaded fuel. My '71 with a newer head (factory hardened seats) had 3E and 4E recede 0.040"+ in 3,500 miles of highway driving. The machinist who rebuilt the head apparently cut too deep when he refinished those seats. My '70 (all original) has receded ~0.020" after 12,000 miles; I noticed highway driving does the most damage.

Ken
:-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:09 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
Car Model:
Quote:
Do you have some type of special valve cover on this engine... most factory covers have lots of room between the adjustment screws and cover. :?
DD
No they are standard valve covers. The gasket is the rubber one and is slim due to re-use. Gonna look for thiker one in my inventory in the morning. Still feeling concern on that one particular valve sinking.

Adjusting nut on that one, and that one only, sits eighth inch higher than all the rest. After screwing it to a setting of 21 thosands. Gl/6


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