i am looking for someone who can rebuild a 1920 holly 1 barrel carb and get it right.i've tried 3 rebuilds on my car from advance and none lasted longer than a month. any suggestions? i'll even try a new factory one if i can find one for my 1972 dart with a 198 ci engine.
thanks
butch

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love a body darts

Butch, there is almost nothing to rebuilding a 1920. If you've done it 3 times and it hasn't improved, then your carb is most likely shot. Is it remanufactured (bought at Napa, Autozone etc) or is it an original? If it's remanufactured you'll save yourself a lot of time and money by paying a little extra up front for a NOS Holley 1920.

Use Holley brand parts in a Holley carburetor. Their needle valves have rubber seats, and other Holley only details in the rest of the rebuild kit.

Sometimes an after market kit's gaskets won't line up with the necessary passageways, as well as poorly sealing needle valves which will cause all sorts of problems.

In addition to trying to make a "factory" rebuild unit work, which is sometimes an impossible dream, you could be passing fine dirt from the tank and plugging up your carburetor.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Advice fail.

In this universe, even the cheapest, nastiest off-brand carburetor rebuild kits have come with "rubber" (actually Viton) inlet needles since the early 1960s. (Yes, you meant inlet needle. The "needle valve", also known as the idle mixture screw, is a completely different part and there is never any rubber involved in, on, or around it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I should know better, especially after the advice given on this forum. I bought one of these Holley Remans from a third party and received what appeared to be a nice shiney 1920 Holley for my '72 Valiant. I disassembled it, because after successfully rebuilding a few of these there is no way that I would install it without my inspection, and found an extra float clip in the fuel bowl and the throttle shaft was so loose that it will need to be corrected. Those were just initial obsevations that I noted in the 10 minute tear down.
Moral of the story, read and famliarize yourself with these carburetors. You will be surprised at what you can fix. Also try to find a carburetor shop that has been around a while. Search function will yield carburetor rebuilders info.
I run a Holley 1920 on my '72 Valiant and like it alot.
Hope you get yours sorted out, good luck!

Only if a 2300/2305,4150/4160,4500....They don't make a kit that is any better for the 1920/1945's...With Standard Motor Products acquiring GP-Sorenson their carb kits have gone down in grade...I bought a Standard Hygrade kit to do a quick Holley 4150 teardown and the kit isn't as nice as the factory holley kit...The gaskets are different (quality) than the ones I have in a Hygrade kit i got for a 2280 a few years back I have on the shelf...

Not sure who is left standing with quality in with our economy...

-D.Idiot

Dan:
[quote]In this universe, even the cheapest, nastiest off-brand carburetor rebuild kits have come with "rubber" (actually Viton) inlet needles since the early 1960s. (Yes, you meant inlet needle. The "needle valve", also known as the idle mixture screw, is a completely different part and there is never any rubber involved in, on, or around it.[/quote]

I got my needle nomenclature mixed up, sorry. So I didn’t list the proper MSD substance coating said needle, point being it was not pie crust, or brass, but some soft fuel resistant material that a blind man would say it “looksâ€￾ like rubber… and seals tightly. Thanks for the clearifacation Dan.

For me, it has been more than several decades since purchasing off brand carburetor rebuild kits. My point is; perhaps the carburetor manufacture’s parts are a batter choice, and at times less expensive, than items from “Carbs is Usâ€￾ stocking 50,000 kits for your every need.

I can envision an advertisement in the trade journals: “Carbs is Usâ€￾, we're the number one supplier of parts to the Carburetor rebuilding industry…

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

If you buy another kit for that carb, you might as well just flush your money down the toilet.

I don't think advising him to buy a 4th rebuild kit after the first 3 have failed is the best advice.

Has any one asked what the symptoms are that he thinks could be a bad carb? Why does it work for a month and then go bad? A bad rebuild should always be bad-not go down hill in a month, three times? Milage on engine? Ignition? Could the problem be some thing else?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

I don't remember, but did 1972's have a charcole canister? It might have a bad canister, allowing the granuoles to get into the carb.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I am not sure but even if they did it would not let charcoal into the carb. But the charcoal canister is the main air reference that the carb works off of and that will screw up a carb(makes it run to rich)-quick check would to remove the canister to carb hose and see if the problem goes away

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

I beg to differ. It is not common, but I have seen this happen more then once. The easy fix if you don't want to change the canister, is install a inline fuel filter in the line between the carb float bowl vent and the canister.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

ok let me clear some things up. i did not rebuild 3 carbs. i purchased or exchanged 3 rebuilt carbs from advance auto.each time i put the newer carb on the car it starts up right away.i shut it off than leave it sit for a day or so now it won't start.this was the second carb purchased.the first carb would run on the car,but it wouldn't idle right.at stop signs it would either stall or it would start reving up so much i had to keep holding the brake on or it would take off.i took it back for exchange for carb number 2 explained above.i took carb number 2 back for exchange for carb number 3 which i will pick up next week.i'll try it next to see if it's any better than the other 2 previous carbs i tried. yes it do's have a charcale cannister on it. i replaced all the old lines to it a few days ago but i'll try removing the hose to see if it's runs any better.i hope this clears up some things.i do appreciate all your input on my problem.
butch

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love a body darts

I personally have started buying most of the well-used Holley 1920s and 1945s that I find at swap meets. I don't see a ton of them, but when I do they're usually pretty cheap.

I'm trying to build a small stockpile of them for later rebuilding. I'm avoiding any carb that is shiny and perfect in a box, and sticking with those that have seen a lot of use. My logic is that if it ran long enough to get that well-worn look, then it probably is rebuildable to one extent or another.

I'm sure I've picked up a few duds here and there, but for what I've been paying for them, it's not the end of the world.

I will never buy another rebuilt carb from any of the parts houses.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

Yes-one of first thing I learned was to do tune-ups and rebuild carbs. I now rebuild my own as well as many "friends" in the area. I love Carters(WCFB/AFB/AVS/BBS/BBD-hate Rochester Quadrajets. Tolerate Holleys and Stromborges(?) are ok. Most real problems are warped castings due to over tighten screws and throttle shaft bore wear.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe