So I went ahead and ordered a Clevite oil pump (OEM spec, not high volume). If the gear from the factory pump is still in good shape I'll use that on the new pump, but if not, I'll be hitting up Doug for a hardened gear.

Anyway, my question (more for Doug I guess) is do you think I should still rework a brand new pump? I'm sure I'll have a better idea of what I'm working with when I go pick it up tomorrow, but what exactly am I wanting to grind down and do I want to drill out just the main passageway, or are there others I should do? How about shimming up the pressure relief valve? How much shimming do I want to start with?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I rework new oil pumps all the time, I will not use one without going through it first.
I do a lot of work to these pumps when I blueprint them, you just have to "think like you are oil" and flow through all the passageways, drill or grind-out anything you would bump into.

The last photo in the oil pump article shows the flow and the exit hole just under the rotor / impeller, that is the most important hole & intersection to work on.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pu ... report.htm

The pumps are not that complicated so have at it
DD

So I'm pretty much just smoothing out the channels? Do I want to round off the right angles on the intake/output holes under the impeller (the angle of the channel wall and the surface the impeller sits against)?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

By all means, round-off and "blend-in" all the sharp edges.
You want the oil to flow smoothly from passage to passage, sharp turns and edges cause turbulance and restriction.
DD

Well I just picked it up, but stupid me, didn't stop at my friends' place for his gear puller. I've got the pump in the freezer now to hopefully make the gear a little loose on the shaft. Is there any effective way to get it off without using a gear puller?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me