Its amazing what you can get home without a cash exchange!

1971 Scamp, 225 /6, A-904, 7.25" 2.76:1.

There is next to no rust anywhere on this car. It is "totaled" because of where it has been hit, but the damage is not extensive.

She needs: Power steering pump, battery cables, fuel gauge, thermostat, motor mounts, windshield washer reservoir, E-brake link cable, exhaust flange gasket, some minor body work, tires, driver door hinges, alot of cleaning, and lubrication of various hinges and linkages.











More pics to come!

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Nice score, THOR!!!!

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

So where was it hit??

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks Mike!

Richard, it was hit just behind the driver door, below the door catch. Someone has already been in there and "fixed" it most of the way. I will need to look a little more closely at it.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

great looking scamp, but that lame ass spoiler has to go!

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I will take off the spoiler when you take off the fart can.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That's not a spoiler.....

It's a wing to lighten the cars weight, giving you better mileage..........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Touché

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I suppose the Hooptie Scoop was worse than either. It was pretty hideous, don't you agree?

It was great to see you and Hannah. I like your new project car!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ceej, the hooptie scoop was a product of a great idea whose plans were drawn out on napkins at a bar. I liked all the attention it got, regardless of what it looked like.

This car is intended to be my daily driver, and I think it will accomplish that splendidly. Lots of work to do, but I've already put over 150 miles on her and haven't had any real issues. I will be doing all the tune-up stuff today, including cleaning out the oil pressure bypass, since it seems to stick after a long flight down the freeway.

I will say this though, I am not accustomed yet to having a 1 barrel car, since I've had Madeline for over a year, and she is by no means stock. This car is a slug compared the the '65.

Oh well, it still running points, and those are going bye bye as soon as I can get D.I. involved.

Fun fun!

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I will donate a 4pin EI box to Miss Victoria

I am keep'n Emma points and Marilyn runs the Orange Flavored Ignition,

So NOW you have an excuse to drive on up to trendy third and hang out!

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

So here are some updates!

I took apart some of the wiring today, and was disgusted with what I found. Isn't that's usually how it works?

At some point, someone tapped into the alternator charge wire for something, 1" of insulation was missing, so I cut the wire, and put a new connector. I rewired the blue field wire/ballast feed/voltage regulator input wire with new connectors, and new wires.

Low RPM charging stability has increased, though the needle still wiggles slightly.

Something on the IGN2 circuit shorted in the past, as the connector for the steering column had visible burn marks on the plastic, and the blue 12ga IGN2 wire had been removed from the connector, and run straight out to the engine compartment to the ballast.

I am pretty sure the starter relay is toast, the car has a pushbutton installed for the starter, and the key does nothing. I haven't checked for voltage from The switch to the relay yet, that's next on the list.

There are alot of overheated wires, and I will likely have to replace all of the 12ga wires on the vehicle side of the connector for the steering column.

The main feed wire from the terminal on the relay where it couples with the fusible link was corroded, dirty, and had a partially melted plastic housing. So, I chopped the plastic off the battery's side of the connector cleaned the terminal, chopped some of the plastic off the fusible link side, cleaned the receptacle and it it.back together. Suddenly, everything electrically operated on the car works better!

I also hooked the defroster vent hose back up to the driver side. It had partially fallen off, and I was only getting a small portion of the airflow I should have been. Now that its reattached, my windshield actually defogs!

Still have a laundry list of stuff to do. I've purchased a new oil pump gasket (so I can replace my current pump), oil pan gasket, and rear main seal.

Right now, I have a myriad of fluids in the crankcase with the idea in mind of cleaning all the gunk out of the engine. I have 4 quarts of 10w-30, 1/2 quart of ATF, and 1/2 quart of diesel. Oil is pretty thin when hot, but it should be cleaning the inside of that engine like no ones business.

I've replaced the thermostat, so now it runs at the proper temperatures too.

Still need a power steering pump (older federal pump), door hinge pins, weather stripping, put a gasket on the rear tailight lens (so it will quit filling with water). Also planned is to replace the entire rearend (bearing noise, I have a spare, and I don't want to screw with doing axle shafts right now, plus it will give me an excuse to bleed the brakes).

I need to set the camber on the front, it is whacked way off, where the tops of the tires are pointed inward quite a ways. I also need to get some 14" tires put on the front, those 13s are driving me nuts...

While I have the bottom of the engine apart, I am going to redo the manifold stack gasket, flat file the headpipe flange, and install a new manifold to head gasket. Going to swap in a better points dizzy (which I have) and that should smooth out the idle a bit.

Lots of work, so little money, even less good weather! I've gotten to the point of putting on rain gear, and going out if its less than pouring rain.

*sigh*

~RDE~
.

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I actually like the scoops. looks pretty neat like that.
anyhow - sounds like your fix it list is about as long as mine is for my valiant. haha it just takes a bit of time and patients to re wire - ive been there and pulling my hair out before also.

its amazing what some people can do to older cars and think its ok.

but your project has mega potential - if I wasnt on the other side of the us id say bring it over to me for a paint job. lol

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

I guess you will just have to move to Oregon wont ya? Yuck, Florida to Oregon would be a complete climate change. You probably like being warm most of the year yea?

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing