I just recently purchased a NOS radiator for my 71 Duster 225 slant six. It didn't come with a NOS cap and I'm not sure what cap I should be looking for. I don't have an owners manual yet, and I'm confused by the various reproductions available which all claim to be concourse correct. Can anyone tell me which reproduction cap I should be looking for and what pressure it is rated at? Thanks

Pressure is 16 lbs. Check the Year One manual on line for the a stock OEM Cap.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks. I've been to Year One's website and they offer several reproduction radiator caps for 1971 A-bodies with a/c and without overflow containers. What also makes this confusing is that I see the same caps on Ebay for a fraction of what Year One is asking. I could spend from $15.00 to $65.00 and they all look alike. I guess I'll just purchase one at the $30.00 level and hope for the best. Thanks again for your help.

The 16# Stant cap is stock. Basically all silver with a brass center button. That is what I am using......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I just put brand new radiator in my 77 Aspen. The radiator guy told me to run a 13 and gave me one as he lost my new 16 lb Stant that I got from NAPA that was on my old radiator. He thought that 16 lb was a little high, which I did also until I checked my service manual. He also gave me a new 15 lb which is what I will probably run. On the type it depends on how original you want to keep it. Mine is a 200.00 daily driver so it didn't have to be original. Well with everything tallied including new to me hood, grill, fender, radiator due to hitting a deer last week and everything I've done to the car. It is now a 1000.00 car LOL

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Thanks Mike

That was a dear deer!

A 16# cap provides a little more freedom from overheating in traffic (I have some nasty commutes, lots of stop and go) when running a 195 degree stat. It also works well with my 205 degree stat.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I bought a 16# reproduction cap for $35.00 which is middle of the road when it comes to cost. I also got some very helpful information from this forum about the proper thermostat to buy. Thanks for the conversation!

I was advised that I should get a 7# cap... what do you guys think about that? 1970 225, 52000 miles.

My radiator guy use to advise a 7# cap, and a qt. of water pump lube in my service trucks whenever he got his hands on them. The vans were mostly high millage junk. I think his theory was; not so much boil over temperature problems (high temperatures & stalled traffic jams are not a problem in Maine), but blowing out old water pump seals, heater cores, and hoses.

I would stick with the 16# cap. If you have been previously using a lower pressure cap in conjunction with old parts, and step back up to a 16# cap, a weak link could possibly let go, but it was on its way out anyway If all the cooling system parts are new, there will be no problem.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
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