Hello Guys,

Following a fruitless search to get hold of some gears for the obscure pre-62ish 8-1/4" axle, I'm in the process of finding an 8-3/4 that I can rebuild fairly easily.

I have currently found an early 8-3/4 rear with the tapered end fittings (as far as I can tell, current owner believes the hubs were permanently fixed) that's just an inch wider than the track of my car (mine's 59.7, this is measured as 60.5).

Ideally, I'd have the post '65 axle with the bolt on hubs but you get what you can here in the UK.

I have a few questions-

1. Just how difficult is it to get parts for these rears? I want to do a full rebuild and change the gears to 3.23 (3.31 would be ideal). I know the post 65 is better looked after (everybody suggests getting the later model) but again, these things aren't exactly dumped on street corners.

2. Does anybody know if the 1960 fullsize drums/hubs/brakes etc. would swap directly from my current rear to the 8-3/4? It would be quite nice if my rear brakes all swapped over.

3. Doctor Dodge said in one of his posts that the older 8-3/4 rears had the axles adjusted with shims. My FSM (genuine 1960 FSM) shows quite clearly a set of adjusters, the ring type with the holes in. Are only some of the older 8-3/4 axles adjusted with shims?

4. Last of all, any other pitfalls I should be aware of?

All the best,
60 Ply

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Maybe he was talking about the early 7 1/4" axles being adjusted with shims, which they definitely were; I just finished rebuilding one.

Here is a link to some good general information on the Mopar 8 3/4

http://www.moparfins.com/Repairs/8-3-4_ ... _Rears.htm

The 57 thru 65 units used a semi-floating, tapered axle w/ a key and nut to hold the axle / brake drum. This design set the axle bearing end play with shims and over-all, that design is a real PITA to work-on and set-up correctly.
DD

I have pulled drums on the earlier (pre 65) 8 & 3/4 and its hard. Even if you have a huge puller and a 15LB Hammer, it may take up to 20 mins to remove a drum. To my knowledge they no longer make any drums or that many parts for these and a 66 and up 3rd Member will not fit them. Also when going to a junk yard for let's say a drum for these. Check the thickness and diameter because some are 2 & 1/2" thick others 2" or even 3" and they come in 10,11 & 12" diameters and some of the setups even use dual wheel cylinders.

Wildcat does have a bunch of the axles and housings, anything else is so rusty.. and there for not worth your time.

I would swap in a Later style 8 &3/4, that way you can choose your gears.
Get Parts that are still Available NEW and also make repairs a breeze.

Measure your rear drum to drum and do some research.

_________________
"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

Any good ideas on how I could find an 8 3/4 to replace the 7 inch rear in my 66 cuda? I am scouring the net and finding nothing at all...perhaps I don't know the proper key words to search?

I've been going at it one-piece-at-a-time. I scored the housing, then center section and diff, axles, and finally brakes. I need R&P, gaskets, crush bearing, & axle bearings. It's tedious and a lot of stop and go. However, I feel like I'll be well ahead $-wise of the complete 8.75s that I found for sale.

Try using Mopar A-body rear end. Failure to insert Mopar will get you a bunch of GM trash.

_________________
You can't fix stupid. - Ron White