Just got a 7.25 with good r&p but want to freshen the seals and replace the axle bearings. Have correct puller, but what is the best method for pressing the new ones without resorting to a shop or can I rig a bottle jack and some pipe to do the job BTW my vintage 1963 chilton states to torque the pinnion nut to 200/225ft lbs yet other resources (later Chilton manual) recommends between 120-150ft lbs which is correct ...Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

hey Dave, i've used a brass drift with a big solid hammer for installing them... maybe a piece of hardwood would work too...

So all i've read and been told about the difficulity of doing the bearing install due to the tapered axles is #%#%...Thanks Thorpar...Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

yeah, the only thing that is hard is removing the bearings, just use a slide hammer (dent puller type) and they will pop out, try to keep them straight as they come out....

Removal not a problem, have a 24 inch puller for those special jobs..Further investigation revels they specificaly want a torque setting of 200ft lbs on that pinion nut....Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

my favorite way for removal/installation is to take a air hammer to the outter race of the axle bearing and then make to quick welds ( so you don't burn through to the axle) the inner race just falls off usually. Then i get a pipe that fits the inner race and hammer the new bearings home with my BMF hammer.

According to mopar the torque spec for a 7 1/4" rear drive pinion fflange nut is 210 ft/lbs...minimum....most guys use a socket and a long piece of pipe to tighten it down, if you want a neat toy, my buddy uses a snap on torque multiplier, so he can actually torque it without the cheater bar and see what the spec is without guessing...


good luck,

-D.Idiot