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 Post subject: High EGT's?
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 7:21 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:19 pm
Posts: 2
Car Model:
i recently picked up an '83 D150. Standard electronic ignition, BBD, 4 spd,

it ran absolutely terrible, would have never been able to drive it home without that 3rd pedal in the lineup. My first assumtion was that the "exhaust choke" warm up righ there in the manifold was stuck, it was, i broke it loose but it didn't help,

when i got it moving, something broke off of it(that plate maybe?) and fell down the pipe, im sure it didn't make it past the first bend in that little pea shooter, i drove it about 10 miles, popping and backfiring the whole way, my concern is when i shut it off, the exhaust manifold and the first 6 inches of pipe were glowing orange

would the blocked pipe be enough to create this kind of heat, or is it more likely to be running way way way too lean? (i have every intention of rebuilding the carb and checking for vaccuum leaks and such anyways, but i have concerns about whether i will have any pistons or exhaust valves left in the thing? Is a 225 as tough as they say? lol

and can that warm up riggin' in the manifold be removed easily? just tap the shaft holes for pipe plugs maybe? or does anyone make a cheap header for this application?

sorry about the long winded question, any thoughts on this would be appreciated, thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:44 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1853
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
A blocked pipe surely could be a contributor to your experience, but it may be more likely that it's a combination of factors. Possibly a lean condition and the blockage.
Concerning your thoughts of removing the exhaust baffle completely; That gadget is quite instrumental in cold weather drivability, so we should establish where you live. (just city & state, please). That will guide any responses concerning your problems.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:09 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Late ignition timing so that the mixture is burning in the manifold............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:32 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1567
Location: Oslo, Norway
Car Model:
Hi DirtyDozen, and welcome to the forum.
Wow, that was a 'bang' start! You outlined the possible worst case scenario yourself, it is not good for an engine to be glowing by nomal driving.

Please, no more running of that engine until you have performed some basic diagnostic work!

Start by reading up on some basic test procedures in the 'Frequently asked questions' sticky in the 'engine' section, there is an awful lot of info there! You should also get a workshop manual for your model/year. Make a search for manuals here in the forum, or see if they list it under 'literature' for your truck at rockauto.com.

Start by pulling your spark plugs, they will tell a story, and they may also be missing some parts!

Then do a compression test, that will tell you if your valves close at all.

Next, lift the valve cover, and do a simple inspection: is there only a carbon layer from burnt oil, or is it still any wet, flowing oil there? If burnt, then you should prepare yourself for the possiblility that you may at least need a major cylinder head overhaul.

Check the valve action by turning the engine over by hand, if some are not closing properly, you may perform a cold adjustment of the valves (usualy done with a hot, running engine - see the FAQ). If the valve action is OK after adjustment, check the compression again for improvement. If you have compression on all cylinders, your valves may be intact, but I must honestly say that I have a feeling that they are not!

Do these test first, and come back to us with the results, and we shall try to guide you in the right direction, as best we can.

Olaf

I am editing myself at once: Sorry DirtyDozen, forget the valve adjustment, if your truck has the original engine, you have hydraulic lifters!

Olaf

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:36 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:33 am
Posts: 22
Location: danville,wva
Car Model:
As the man said, let us know where you live, cold weather or what?
Slant is almost undriveable in cold without some kind of intake heat.
Air cleaner heat flapper door working properly is also a must in cold.
Need to remove exhaust pipe and get broke piece out for sure. I
would almost bet that will take that orange color out of your manifold.
As for damage that may allready have happened,remains to be seen.
Hope you get lucky there!
Rooster :)

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if it has breasts,wheels,or freon it requires constant attention.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:37 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
Car Model:
You will need to check the Cat(s) They will be plugged if not removed all ready. BTDT have the new exhaust to prove it.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
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