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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:14 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:01 am
Posts: 93
Location: Detroit, MI
Car Model:
I have never had a carbureted car in my lifetime that did not require you to "kick down" the cold idle when the car warms up. As far as I know, there is supposed to be a mechanism that pulls the idle down based on the temp of the engine. I apparently have never had one that works.

What is missing on my /6 if my fast idle is not being disengaged when it gets warm?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:08 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 363
Car Model:
The only one I have ever seen work, was a Japanese carb (Keihin?) that used a wax pellet type of choke control and it was strong enough to pull the fast idle cam and slide it under the idle screw, meaning the engine slowed down as it warmed up.

If your engine won't slow down when you bump the throttle, it means the idle is set too high to begin with, or the fast idle cam is not rotating freely, or the choke itself is not coming off as it warms.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:26 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:01 am
Posts: 93
Location: Detroit, MI
Car Model:
It kicks down when I bump it, I just thought it was supposed to do it on its own.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:37 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 363
Car Model:
Quote:
It kicks down when I bump it, I just thought it was supposed to do it on its own.
Nope. It is actually designed that the pressure of the idle screw against the fast idle cam will hold it on fast idle and it will stay until you bump the throttle, and then gravity brings it down.

BTW, if you have a carter carb (and even some Holleys), you should pump the throttle once or twice, completely remove your foot, and the fast idle will then be on the TOP notch. Once the motor starts (don't touch the gas while cranking), the vacuum break on the choke pulls it down to a lower notch if you touch the gas. Some carters I've had didn't even touch the fast idle part of the cam at all if you touched the throttle during or after startup. And you could not make them, with adjustments.

If your car won't start this way, it's generally not properly adjusted. (choke, vacuum break, etc)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 12:18 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
It may take a few mornings of testing to get the adjustments correct, but once it is set, your golden. Mine works perfectly. You can click on the red link below my name to view pics of the carb.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:39 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:01 am
Posts: 93
Location: Detroit, MI
Car Model:
Quote:
BTW, if you have a carter carb (and even some Holleys), you should pump the throttle once or twice, completely remove your foot, and the fast idle will then be on the TOP notch.
That's what I do love about the car. Two pumps of the gas first thing in the morning and it fires right up on the top cam. Good stuff.

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