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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2003 10:02 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2003 11:41 am
Posts: 32
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia
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My '68 Valiant needs to have a new wheel bearing put in on the rear driver's side. Pass side done last year, trouble is I don't have the cash to take it to the mechanic again. I have the part and SOME of the know-how... what are the steps I need to take to get the axel OUT and the new bearing IN?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2003 1:02 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
Posts: 550
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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There are as many was to do this as there are days in the week. What axle are you using? if the 7.25 allow me quote my Chilton. Access the retaining bolts located behind the backing plate (not necessary to disassemble brake assembly) You have a access hole in the backing plate, rotate it as needed to access all bolts. BE CARFUL YOU DO NOT LOOSE THE ADJUSTMENT SHIMS LOCATED BEHIND PLATE IF THEY ARE USED IN YOUR APPLICATION Pull retainer slightly forward (if possible, this disengages shaft from center section ) and reattach brake assembly to use for leverage and pull straight out, axle should remove with collar/cone/bearing assembly. At this point reach inside tube and remove inner axle seal. A reverasble puller is handy for this, lacking that try vice gripes, but don't recommend that, get the right tool, there are specific tools that can be had a nominal cost to remove/install seals. Install new inner seal at this time to avoid forgeting it later. Inspect axle shaft for nicks and general ware. No problems with shaft, good, now the fun begins, using puller remove axle retainer plate, score using chisel every 90 degrees the collar and remove with puller, do the same with bearing and cone assembly but without the scoring. Ok, we have inner axle seal properly seated. Need to drive or press new bearing and cone, Lacking a press have read where brass drifts were used with easy taps around the diameter. Lightly grease the outside of the bearing. TAKE IT SLOW AND EASY, DO NOT COCK THE BEARING. If in doubt of your ability have a shop press it. Repeat above step for the collar and retainer. Replace outer seal on backing plate, it's a easy job. carefully SLIDE SHAFT BACK INTO HOUSING, KEEP AT 90 DEGREES WHEN REINSERTING OR DAMAGE TO YOUR NEW SEALS/BEARINGS COULD RESULT AND POSSIBLE DAMMAGE TO BEARINGS INSIDE CASE HAND SET FLUSH WITH TUBE RETAINER.Install any shims and retainer bolts and torque to 35ft lbs. the most important tool is a good manual (Chilton or Haynes) This procedure sounds complex, but is a job anyone can do with simple tools and careful attention to details. There are some details I am unclear of, all minor. Issue 1-1963 application mentions a key in the axle the 70 (my core year) doesn't. Issue 2-axle endplay of .003 to .005 is this with or without shims? these items will be determined upon teardown..Good luck and happy wrenching...Dave


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2003 9:26 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Spring, Texas, USA
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I had a 68 Valiant. It had the 7.25 rear end in it. Any time I had to replace a rear wheel bearing I pulled the axle and took it new bearing and all to a machine shop and had the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on. The cost was around 20 bucks. Nice thing about doing it this way is you don't have to worry about messing up the new collar, bearing or axle. Also it was a lot less work to do it this way. :P

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Mark


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 9:35 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2003 11:41 am
Posts: 32
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia
Car Model:
I've got the wheel off, drum off, and removed the four bolts behind the wheel studs. Now how do I get the axle out??? I Tried to simply pull it out, and I've tried to figure out what else I need to loosen, no luck.

All I want to do is switch the axle from one car to another. Both have same rear end, etc. I NEED to get this done so I can drive to work on Monday :(


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 Post subject: Don't give up the ship
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 10:07 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 10:42 am
Posts: 550
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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It is designed to simply pull out, Try this: Bolt the backing plate back on and finger tighten a couple of bolts, use this to provide leverage when pulling axle towards you, use a rubber mallet as you pull.......or........If you have or can borrow a slide hammer go that route. Sounds like a bearing or seal is hanging up unless axle was submerged then you have a rust issue and the axle is history anyway . Work and cuss at it and it will eventually come loose, also found out this helps, use a garden sprayer to shoot 10W oil as far as possible into the axle tube. BTW am designing and manfacturing a press to deal with these nasty suprises....Dave


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:40 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2003 11:41 am
Posts: 32
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia
Car Model:
Nope, it won't budge... out of EITHER car! There's nothing else I'm supposed to loosen up? I sat on the driveway with the car in neutral (blocked so it won't move), feet on the leaf springs and PULLED toward me as hard as I could... NOTHING :cry:

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