So I've lurked here a bit, and y'all seem very helpful, so I was hoping someone could give an inexperienced fella like me a few tips.

I have a 65 Dart GT with an automatic transmission, shifter on the floor. A few days ago, I moved it out of the garage and parked it in the driveway. The next day, I went to move it back into the garage, but I couldn't get it out of park. The shifter wouldn't move.

This had happened about a month ago, and I was able to eventually wiggle it out of park, and it worked great up until now. I take it out once or twice every weekend, and the transmission was operating normally.

So I tried working it out of park, like I did the time before, but when I eventually got the lever moving, the transmission stays in park. That is, the lever moves to the different positions, but the car doesn't move.

So I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow, but I know absolutely nothing about transmissions. This was my first car when I was 16, and I recently had the engine rebuilt, and would like to restore it completely some day, but the transmission is a mystery to me at this time.

Can anyone give me some hints on what to look for, or what the problem might be? The transmission section of my service manual is very intimidating, so any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like frozen cable(s) have finally broken. That shifter uses two cables that actuate the shifter on the valve body. One cable for shifting into Park, And the other cable for the other gears. I had one of these tranies on my 65 cuda. It's basically a push button transmission without the pushbuttons. Good luck finding new cables! I've been keeping my eyes open with little luck.

I don't know about the '65 console setup, but some floor shifters have an adjustable release button. If they are out of adjustment, they will not allow the shifter to move out of the detent position.

Thanks for the tips, guys.

I was able to take apart the console this morning and while I didn't see an adjustable release button, I did see the two cables and they are intact. So luckily I don't have to track down any new parts yet.

Then, surpsingly enough, it started working again. I was showing my girlfriend the problem, by putting the lever into R, N and D and revving really high with no motion when all of a sudden something caught and the car lurched forward. I almot took out her moped that she parks in front of the car

So I still don't know what the problem is, but at least it's working right now. My service manual offers the following hints under the "No Drive in any position" section of the transmission trouble shooter

1. Low fluid level
2. Hydraulic pressures too low.
3. Oil Filter clogged
4. Valve body malfunction or leakage
5. faulty oil pump
6. clutches or servos sticking or not operating

#6 sounds probable, but what do I know? When I have some spare time, I'll try and eliminate as many on the list as I can, but I just might have to take it in to a pro if it happens again.

whoops, forgot to log in. ^^^^ that's my post

Now we're getting some where... Make sure that oil level is up! With not enough oil in the system, there's now way for the tranny to engage the bands and so forth. The system releys on the oil for moving things through the miracle of hydrylics. NO oil ...NO move! If the filter is plugged ...It does not allow the oil to get to the parts fast enough. (i.e....rev the motor and it goes..)Sounds to me know like you need to pull out your dipstick!! Good luck ..Let us know what you find.

So my fluid levels were a bit low, let's hope that's all I need to worry about. It was supposedly given a thorough inspection when the engine was rebuilt, so I hope I can trust that the filter is new. I'll check it out, though. Apparently it's not mounted under the starter...

My manual calls for AQ-ATF transmission fluid, but Kragen just had ATF+3 "recommended for chrysler engines". I did a search and it looks like this fluid is compatible, but someone give me a holler if I'm about to mess things up.

Thanks again for your help, all. I'm having fun learning about my engine.

torqueflites 904 and 727 should use dexron II or III.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

My '65 Barracuda did the same thing 12 years ago right after I got it. Trouble is I don't remember exactly how we fixed it. It wasn't internal or hydraulic, it had something to do with the parking pawl. I had the trans overhauled and the hard to shift out of park problem was fixed at the same time. It was either wear or dirt on the pawl mechanism.

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"Former Owner" of '65 Barracuda, 225, Auto, MP 2bbl intake, MP cam, Dutra Duals. Presently Moparless.

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James, you are correct. Type "F" has a little bit higher coefficent of friction, and gives a little bit firmer shift. But it also will wear the bushings a little bit quicker. B&M "trick shift" used to be even a little bit more agressive, then type "F". I use the "F" in my cars, but Dexron is what was used as the factory recommended fluid, for daily drivers. This was the way I read the question.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225