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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:36 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Is that pushing it? .171" flat cut?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:22 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:59 pm
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Location: Chico, CA
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Yep! Too much. That's not all that much less then 1/5 of an inch, and would probably weaken the head too much. Most limit it to .090" (just over half of .171"), although I've heard .100" (and slightly more) is possible. Sounds like you are trying to acheive a closed chamber...yes?
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Last edited by polkat on Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17299
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Are you looking for 11 or 12:1 compression? It may be OK, but that's probably pushing it. I have done 0.110" on manifold side and 0.210" on plug side successfully.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:24 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Nope I am looking for 10.5:1 with the pistons down in the hole .183"


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:26 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Here is the deal. The head has already been cut It seems as the chambers are 54cc. I want to cut another .130 or so to get a 34cc chamber and 10.5:1 with a .18375 deck height.

Pistons -.18375 in the hole
.041 head gasket 3.51 diametier
3.46 bore
4.124 stroke
65 (with the 15 added) intake closing point.
My calculations say I need about a 34cc chamber.
What say ye?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Do yourself a favor and cut the block.

.120" on the head will get you 34 CC if you are at 54 now. :shock:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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I've cut .100 off my daily driver

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:33 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
You need to take some off the block..........

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7457
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Cut the deck. I cut mine 0.120" This was for my particular build, so do the math for yours. You won't have to cut it as far as I chose to.
This leaves lots of meat in the head to try to keep the valves away from the bores. Still plenty of holding power for the head studs/bolts.

If you run oversize valves, you may have to relieve the bores to avoid interference. By not cutting the head, you keep them further away and minimize the possibility of putting a valve into the deck at the edge of a bore.

Check any head and block prior to assembly to make sure the combustion chamber is alligned over the bores. Bolt it to the block while the Reciprocating assembly is out, and turn it over to see. Adjust as necessary with offset dowels.

I had an engine bend some shiny new valves due to missalignment.

CJ

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:23 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:12 pm
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Location: Paradise, Ca.
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I cut.170 off the head and .135 off the block i o.ring the block and run a copper head gasket


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 6:56 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Edd PM sent.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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At 54cc's it may not have been cut. I would just cut 0.120" off the head and have about 10:1 comp. No reason to shoot for a higher number and risk the head on a street car. 10:1 will be a big bump up and you will like it. Then, when you want to pull the shortblock apart, you can cut the block to get whatever comp you like.

Lou

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