I had a Dart that would do that. Turned out to be stuff in the carb passages. I would take the idle air screw out and blast air in the hole, then put the screw back in. It would then run OK for 10 miles or so until it clogged up again. You might try that trick with yours and see if it makes any difference. If it does then it is time to rebuild the carb or replace it.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Chuck he has rebuilt the carburetor recently.
But that’s not to say a chunk of crud has taken up residence in the idle circuit since than. Chuck advice may prove to be helpful.

When you had the carburetor disassembled were the passages blown & flushed out real well?

Did you replace fuel filter, and any old rubber, or rather, soft fuel lines that may have been degraded by today’s aggressive fuel?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

FYI, rebuilding the carb did not help in my car. There appeared to be fine silt in the channels that we couldn't clean out effectively.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

If I do not have "shop air" around to blow out carbs I use a can of carb spray-works almost as well. Double check float level-if to high you can run into these problems.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

Thanks for all the help I'm going to get at it again next weekend hopefully I will get it right with all the help thanks

Idle is "very high"....I wasnt sure if you said how high. Perhaps the idle is adjusted to the point that it is running off of the main jet since I imagine you were having problems idling in the first place and may have over adjusted the idle set screw. Get the idle sorted out as posted before and retry.

I use those cans of brake cleaner like they're free. Amazing stuff, works great for finicky carb passages and jets. I heard one dude that took a palm sander and strapped it to some tupperware, put his parts in with some parts cleaner and left it going. \

Not sure if it works, but it leaves me really curious. Good luck!

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The only way you can ever really break something beyond repair is to give up trying to fix it.

NEVER spray regular brake cleaner into an engine's intake tract, ever. When it burns it generates hideously toxic phosgene gas (also known as nerve gas). Let there be an exhaust leak or poor ventilation or an inopportune gust of breeze and you are in deep doodoo; a little goes a very long way.

The non-chlorinated variety which consists only of non-chlorinated solvents is okeh, but never the regular variety. If you see anything in the fine print that contains "chloro" (trichloroethane, trichloroethylene, perchloroethylene, dichlorodiphenoltrichloroethane, etc.), DO NOT spray it into a carburetor installed on an engine.

I prefer to stick with carburetor cleaner. My favorite brand is still Berryman's B12 Chemtool. Three target points are the primary idle air bleeds (forward inboard wall of the carburetor throat, one hole sized perfectly for the red spray straw on the can of carb cleaner on a Carter carb, one such hole and one tiny pinhole on a Holley 1920), the idle air bypass inlet (~1/8" hole near the top of the passenger side inboard wall of the carb throat on '69-up carbs) and the idle fuel port. To clean the first two, run the engine at a fast idle, insert the spray tube and give short blasts of carb cleaner until the engine "gags" but does not stall. Let it recover and hit it again. Repeat five or six times. For the idle fuel port, prop the throttle open to give a very fast idle, spray carb cleaner where the idle mixture screw enters the carb body to clean away grit, then remove the idle mixture needle. If the engine's not running fast enough, it'll die. Spray blasts of carb cleaner into the idle mixture screw hole. Reinstall the mixture screw and get it roughly to the right position ('bout 2 turns open from a light seating) then lower the idle speed and adjust it properly.

"Idle speed is very high" means stuff is effed up and not adjusted correctly. The car won't run right until everything's adjusted all the way where it's supposed to be. If it won't run unless the idle speed is turned way up, something's wrong. Find and fix.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have an '85 D100 Custom that is doing the exact same thing. I know that I have an exhaust leak but can not find a vaccum leak. Carb is in good shape, have replaced fuel filter, etc... Truck sat for a good while before I got it with 75,000 original miles on it.