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 Post subject: Newbie stuff...
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 12:18 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
Hi, I'm in abit of a rush with this one, and wanted to learn the best from the best.

How can I tell if I have "spark" (An easy way that doesn't involve two people)....

I am about to get a cylinder compression tester, is it simple as just plug into the spark plug spot and rotate the engine for a reading? Highest reading is the compression? I am a little worried I have petrol in the oil, that'd mean I need new rings right?

What can petrol in the oil do to me? And say I replace all the oil and filter etc, and don't replace the rings assuming the car fires up all the time would this be "safe" until I can get new rings.

Also How much do you guys reckon labor would be if I was quoted around $60 per hour and I supplied rings and pistons?

Is it possible that my valve cover could be on too tight restricting the movement of the valves? Or in some way stopping the engine from starting?

Thankyou muchly appreciated!


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 Post subject: Re: Newbie stuff...
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:04 am 
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Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Hi, I'm in abit of a rush with this one, and wanted to learn the best from the best.

How can I tell if I have "spark" (An easy way that doesn't involve two people)....
Use a remote start switch that attaches to the terminals on the starter motor. Put the key in the "run" position and use the the rtemote start switch to crank the motor to check for spark.
Quote:
I am about to get a cylinder compression tester, is it simple as just plug into the spark plug spot and rotate the engine for a reading? Highest reading is the compression?
Yes and yes.
Quote:
I am a little worried I have petrol in the oil, that'd mean I need new rings right?
More likely you have a ruptured diaphragm in the fuel pump or your carb is running very very rich which has lead to fuel wash down the cylinder bores, the removal of the protective film of oil left on the cylinder bore walls that aids in sealing and lubrication, and the scoring of the cylinder walls and destruction of the piston rings. Start with a compression check and oil change, then check the fuel pump before you assume bad rings and/or cylinder bores.
Quote:
What can petrol in the oil do to me?
Thin out the oil to the point it is useless, wash the oil off of the bearing surfaces, and wash the oil off of the cylinder bores. This will lead to bearing failure, premature cylinder bore and piston ring wear, and possible fire or explosion in the crankcase. In short, nothing good or even tolerable in the short term.
Quote:
And say I replace all the oil and filter etc, and don't replace the rings assuming the car fires up all the time would this be "safe" until I can get new rings.
If the gasoline/petrol is getting into the crankcase past the piston rings, then you are just wasting your money by changing the oil. The new oil and filter will become contaminated in short order, requiring another change. Running the engine with oil contaminated by gasoline is not safe for any length of time.
Quote:
Also How much do you guys reckon labor would be if I was quoted around $60 per hour and I supplied rings and pistons?
Well, anyone replacing the piston rings will have to basically pull the motor and nearly completely disassemble it. The problem is that if your engine leaks gas down the sides of the cylinder bores, the bores may be worn enough to require an overbore which would require machine work and oversize pistons and rings. You might be facing much more than just a re-ring job. You might be looking at a complete engine rebuild. I would be absolutely positive that (a) you are getting gas in the crankcase and (b) the gas is getting in the crankcase by bypassing the piston rings before you assumed that it was the rings. When a slant six has oil in the gas it is most often caused by a ruptured diaphragm in the fuel pump. This is a fairly cheap and easy fix compared to a rering or rebuild. Do a compression check and replace the fuel pump first.
Quote:
Is it possible that my valve cover could be on too tight restricting the movement of the valves? Or in some way stopping the engine from starting?
Only if you are running some weird non-stock valve cover or if the valve cover has been damaged which leads to the valves either (a) being stuck open or (b) held shut and therefore bending all of your pushrods. Try starting the car with the valve cover off (and adjust the valves while you are in there). I really doubt the valve cover is keeping your car from starting.

_________________
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 3:49 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:29 am
Posts: 67
Location: Charleston, SC
Car Model:
Can't really add anything more. Good advice...take it.

_________________
A little rebellion now and then... is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government. Thomas Jefferson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 10:14 pm 
Offline
EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
Thank-you so much!

I'm about to go out to the car, I'll do a compression test, if good I'll dump all the oil change the filter, change the fuel pump. Pour extra oil to make sure I get everything out, pour the final oil and not worry anymore.

If bad compression I'll check the rings etc by removing the head if so I'm in the market for a new slant 6.

Also what kind of PSI should I expect from a stock slant 6?

Thankyou again!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 10:28 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:56 pm
Posts: 22
Location: New Zealand
Car Model:
125-130psi is good.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 10:59 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
Cheers!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 12:44 am 
Offline
EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
Ok so just swapped the fuel pump over, I've had one lieing around for quite a while and I am pretty hopefuly it was the fuel pump that was the problem.

Q1 - how do I check if the fuel pump was the cause, as in how do I see if the diaphram was ruptured?

Q2 - Will the "fuel" being in oil clean the inside of the engine at all in a positive way? I am thinking it would remove oil around the cylinders (bad right?) But it might clean out oil passages?

Q3 - Should I pull the sump or is this over kill? I think it's overkill.

Thanks!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 1:18 am 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Ok so just swapped the fuel pump over, I've had one lieing around for quite a while and I am pretty hopefuly it was the fuel pump that was the problem.

Q1 - how do I check if the fuel pump was the cause, as in how do I see if the diaphram was ruptured?

Q2 - Will the "fuel" being in oil clean the inside of the engine at all in a positive way? I am thinking it would remove oil around the cylinders (bad right?) But it might clean out oil passages?

Q3 - Should I pull the sump or is this over kill? I think it's overkill.

Thanks!!!
A1- Change the oil and oil filter, run it for a bit, then see if the oil smells like petrol.

A2- Gas in the oil might clean out oil passages.

A3- yes, it would be overkill.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 2:17 am 
Offline
EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
Thanks alot, yet again you guys saved me!


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