OK
I have located a rear for our 1968 Dodge Dart
@ a u pull/pay
I do not have a battery impact gun
what is a good one to buy for use in such a manner.
anything I should keep in mind under use?
thanks

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I would recommend just unbolting the rear springs form the body and purchasing the axle and springs as an assembly. The extra cost of the springs will likely be less than buying a battery operated impact gun. Then you can take the assembly home and use a sawzall to cut the u-bolts to separate the axle from the springs. As an added bonus, you can use one of the leafs from each rear spring pack to beef up the springs currently on your Dart. It is a better plan all around!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Bring a breaker bar and snap them off or break em lose!

Kev

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You might need the shock plates too.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

its not a dodge rear

its an exployer 8.8..... 3.75 disk brake posi..spring mounted rear..a little wider then stock, but would be the same as our stock unit we are using with adaptor plates for 4.5 cop wheels...


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anyone use a battery impact gun @ the pick/pull?

what volts?

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

When I tried to remove shackle bolts on my Plymouth using my 110VAC impact gun, the U-bolts just twisted and absorbed the impact, so I used a 3/4" ratchet and a deep socket to unscrew the nuts; one of the U-bolts broke off.

Yup. In your situation I would second (or third?) the recommendation of skipping the impact gun and going for a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar and a cheater bar slipped over the end of the handle.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

best piece of advice i can give to you, save the money and use a breaker bar and pipe extension if needed, do it in this order try to tighten 1/4 turn then try unscrewing them, the 1/4 turn tight helps break up a "rust seal" that forms on the threads. I personally have and use a Snap-On 18volt 55ft-lb impact, but i bought it brand new for around $500, of course thats when i was still working at a chrysler dealer bringing home big bank $$$$$$$ before the economy crashed, then i joined the Navy lol


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Get a battery operated sawzall and cut the u-bolts.

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Thanks Mike

I guess different places have different rules. I went to couple different "u-pull-it" yards in PA & they didn't allow powers at all.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

OK please read and advise..thank you.

went to local yard. crawled under a exployer and bent/removed the tag off the dif. so i could rear with light/eye glasses..
heres the tag info. I do have it also.

S6133
3L73 8 8 5F29

I unbolted all but 1 bolt on each spring/shock plate, unbolted the stablizer bar. the keys to the vehicle were taken out by someone. their normally stainless steed tied in a ring around the steering wheel. the car was locked in park. i could not get it into netural. driveshaft would not move.

so its hang down ready 4me to unbolt the last 2 bolts, knock out the shackle bold and remove wheels/tires..

so I figure to try and make sure it is limited slip as the tag states.

remember the drive shaft does not move, I move one side tire oneway and the opposite tire moves the other way..whats up..old school limited slip the wheels would only move in one direction..is this unit different then what i'm used to..I left the yard without a purchase so i can search all info..
all info states its a limited slip, but in practice with the driveshaft locked in park it does not look like a limited slip..am i missing something here?

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

yes its a limited slip the 3L73 tells you its a limited slip with 3.73 gears. I spent alot of time in junk yards looking at 8.8s when I swaped one in to my cherokee