Sorry Sam, I wasn't trying to be smart, I just didn't want you to miss it. I dunno about 8" on the sensor distance. I know what I'd do (I'd try it) since it's getting compromised where it is. Actually it depends on how hard it would be to install another bung along that pipe.

_________________
It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

The down pipe can be pulled out with 5 bolts. It may take Houdini to get it out of there after the bolts are out, but I will try. Today it behaved. Go figure.

If I am walking into a stream of enemy fire, don't worry about my feelings George. I appreciated the heads up. Who knows how long I would have waited for Lou's response? That kind of obliviousness comes partly from being too busy, and being in a hurry. Working until 10:45 doesn't help an already spacing nature either. Thanks again.

Sam

_________________

I have the kindest regards for you and your efforts here Sam, and sometimes I notice that my posts either don't convey that or could be taken a different way than I mean. If you are ever in doubt of that, default to the first sentence

You have had an inordinate amount of trouble with that O2 installation so moving it at least will tell you if the location was the problem.

On the Neon, the O2 is about 18" or so from the turbo and has worked well. By 'well' I mean it lasted longer than the engine did

_________________
It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

I did move the sensor. It involved removing the down pipe, taking it to my welder, and then replacing it. The sensor now sits more vertically, and is 14" from the turbo outlet measured on the inside radius and 18" when measured on the outside radius. I will let you know how this works. The numbers displayed look good now, but always looked good for the first ten minutes.

Sam

_________________

Now that the O2 sensor is in a better place, fuel tuning can proceed. I went out last night tuning for about an hour, and among other things, took a lot of fuel out at idle. According to the same sensor, but in a closer location, the engine was idling at 12.5:1 instead of the 13.8-14.2 it reported before. So, I tuned it to yield 14.1, and the idle now is quieter and smoother. It no longer sounds like it has a hot cam in it. Values returned at cruise did not change so much. If anything they looked a little leaner.

The VE number went from 40 to 38 in the idle cells. Now it cranks longer to start, so I think I must add some time back into the cranking pulse. This surprised me because I was under the impression that the cell at 400 RPM and 100 KPA was the one that effected starting, and not the idle cells.

The book says: 1. Cranking pulse. 2. Warm up enrichment. 3.After start enrichment. In that order. Any thoughts on tuning the start up values? Also thrown in the mix is the accel enrichment, which effects things.

I forgot to add that the above sequence starts with stable hot idle tuning.

Sam

_________________

No no..

Start up is in other section of settings, needs little more fuel for short time and rpm needs to be couple or so rpm higher (remember had to start and richer and carb kept engine rpm higher? Same with hot restarts you had to press on gas slightly to get engine started at slightly higher rpm? The other items for idle and driving, boost is with this grid only where you are adjusting right now.

Cheers, Wizard

I realize the cold start and warm up is another tuning table, I'm simply quoting this manual.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2 ... anual.html


Click on "Setting the cold start and warm up settings."


Sam

_________________