All righty gents got a bunch of questions on restoring a car,

I have some pretty nasty scratchs in my '79 volare's door glass both sides from the worn out felt guides, I was wondering if there is any way to take the scratches out, and if there is a company that sells the "L" shaped brackets in the door with the felt guides that adjust the in and out of the door glass.

i am currently stripping the trunk of caked on seam sealer, rust and a few layers of paint, what is a good choice for an angle grinder, burned out 2 harbor freight grinders, last grinder lasted 10 whole minutes.

is seam sealer really necessary ?? and is there any one brand better than another ??

also there is some deep pitted rust and a few pin holes from it, is there a quality rust converter that will soak through and convert all the rust i can't get out ??

What can I use to fill the tiny holes ?? I have heard of using a torch and lead filler rod, is that a good approach ??

i'm going to be getting a TIG welder come tax returns (and since my wife just had our son it should be a rather hefty return lol) and need to know what would be a good one to get, looking to weld up to 1/4"- 1/2" aluminium, for custom intake manifold's and gas tanks, and 1/4"-1/2" steel/stainless for turbo exhaust manifolds.

I think we need to have a restoration section lol

Thanks as always,
-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Summit racing sells a glass polishing kit. It comes with abrasives, pads and pad holders that you chuck up into an electric drill. It works fairly well, but takes a long time.

For an angle grinder, I use a Bosch 4 inch grinder. I use it heavily every day at work and it still runs like a champ after 2 years.

I couldn't tell you what seam sealer is better than the other. I just use whatever is cheapest at the paint and body supplier.

On rust I've been using POR-15 for quite a few years and it works extremely well! For filling the pin holes, yes you can use solder. But you have to deal with acidic and corrosive flux. It has to be neutralized after the filling. Its also a little hard to work with especially if the holes are close together. I think the best solution would be to cut the sheet metal out and weld in a patch panel. Especially since you're getting a welder soon.

I'd recommend a Multi Process machine for welding. I run a Miller 302 MIG/TIG/Stick machine at work and its great. It gives you so much more flexibility than a dedicated machine.

well so far so good, on the HF grinder, gonna abuse it more today, and I am talking about LEAD filler rod, gonna hit up a few welding shops in the area in hopes of them having somthin., I was thinkin of just welding the pin holes and grinding smooth. I already have a flux/mig setup at home, just looking for a dedicated TIG setup.

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I use POR-15's POR Patch product. Use their 3 step process to treat the area first, then apply the POR Patch. I get it in clear and use POR-15 silver underneath it.

They have great products! I also use the POR-15 paint the way I would use fiberglass resin on lay ups. If you have rust on the outside, go inside or the back side and grind or sand the area clean around the rusted area, use their 3 step process, then lay it up from the inside. The next day you can go back out side and grind away all the rust from the infected area and then build it back up with POR-15 and fiberglass mat, etc....Their fillers are also very good if you need to use filler.

For fixing small spots or medium size areas it sure beats welding sheet metal and it won't ever rust again.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG