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emsvitil
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:44 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
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The Torque Converter bolt sound interesting, as I can't imagine the sound that would make?
Back in 09 I was towing a trailer loaded with about 3500 pounds of cold war era air raid sirens back from Ohio using my 85 C-10. Right outside of Nashville my truck started making a noise. It started off as an irregular tick that I attributed to my cheap flowtech headers. As I strolled on at 75-80 MPH the tick turned into a CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK that kept getting louder and louder. I thought great, my old 305 is about to bite the dust and I'm a long way from home. The first rest stop I got to I pulled over and decided to assess the damage. So I was sitting there at the rest stop with the truck going CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK when suddenly I heard a bang underneath the truck and the clunk stopped. Everything seemed okay on the gauges and I didn't see any puddles of fluid collecting under the truck so I jumped back in it and eased on home. When I got home I told a coworker (who happens to be a dirt track racer) about what happened to my truck and it mysteriously fixed itself. He suggested I check the torque convertor bolts. So I removed the inspection cover and had an assistant bump the engine over with the distributor powered down. What I found was a bolt missing it's head. Somehow over a 240,000 mile period this one torque convertor bolt had managed to work loose until it finally started to hit something inside the bellhousing. Apparently it backed on out until it hit something hard enough to snap the head off of it and shear the bolt off even with the flexplate.

I never was able to get that bolt out, and drove the truck until I got tired of the 305 and pulled it out.

That goes to show that a torque convertor bolt can make a LOT of racket.

It also showed that my old truck once again got me home, even if it was a chivvy.
Parents old Cadillac had something similar.

The bolts stay in, but the lugs the bolts were bolted to separated from the converter.

Drove the car down to a local welder and he welded the lugs back onto the converter for $20 (converter and trans still installed...)

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wjajr
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 4:42 am 
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Easer than crawling under car; pull starter after disconnecting battery, you won’t have to remove its wires, and inspect the converter bolts. It will only take a few minutes with this method.

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Danarchy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:49 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Get an oil pressure gauge. A cheapo mechanical one can be purchased from most parts store for around $20.
I hadn't bought any gauges in along time. Nylon tubing instead of copper? Cheapo is right. Who makes a good quality Oil Pressure Gauge?(Mechanical)under $100 bucks? I had VDO gauges in my last car, worked well, not very good lighting though.

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Reed
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:17 am 
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Danarchy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 10:31 am 
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guess I was looking for a recommendation. Going back with the VDO Vision Series, worked good before, and they still make the same gauges 20 years later!

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Danarchy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 11:43 am 
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I guess this is BAD News. All (4) Torque Converter Bolts seem to be in place. So as far as just replacing the bearings without rebuilding the engine, do I just pull the oil pan and replace them from below(is this possible with the K member?),or should I pull the engine? Any other suggestions?
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Reed
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 12:09 pm 
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Check the torque on all four converter bolts and make sure they are fully seated and tight.

It is not possible to pull the oil pan and replace the bearings with the motor installed in a 64 Dart. You are going to have to pull the motor.

Did you get any compression or oil pressure readings yet?

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Danarchy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 12:48 pm 
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Looking for my compression tester right now, just moved and can't find anything.I want to get a good oil pressure gauge, but I live in a small town and all they(AZone & O'Reilly's) have are cheap crappy ones.Have to order one online.
Engine runs perfectly smooth, idles fine, no overheating, just makes a terrible knocking sound in the engine block area below the starter. :?

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Danarchy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 12:50 pm 
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Check the torque on all four converter bolts and make sure they are fully seated and tight.
I can probably check and see if the bolts are tight(box end wrench), but I don't see how I can get a torque wrench on them???
Bolts are not all the same? 1 looks like the picture and the other 3 are Grade 8 bolts???

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Reed
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 1:35 pm 
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Box end wrench is fine. Just make sure the bolts are tight.

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wjajr
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 3:16 pm 
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One should be able to access the torque converter /flex plate bolts via a long extension or two, and if needed, a ground down socket of correct size with starter removed. You will find accessing these bolts at the starter opening is much easier than at the dust cover location.

That one bolt in your photo looks to be snug, but as Reed said, give’em a test snugging just the same. When my bolts became loose they chafed the flex plate under the bolt’s head.

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Danarchy
PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:02 pm 
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I got the starter back off and checked one of the Torque Converter Bolts and it was tight, but I noticed that there were a few (fresh) knick's around the area of that bolt???, yesterday I saw all 4 bolt(marked the 1st one before turning the flywheel). What else could be lose in there??? I am going to pull the lower access panel off tomorrow, just to get a different view.

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Reed
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:31 pm 
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Could be something got into the area by the torque converter. Definitely pull the inspection cover and check for rocks or other foreign objects.

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wjajr
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:09 pm 
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Something could have dropped down into the flywheel area during a previous starter removal.

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82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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Danarchy
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 12:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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pulled the inspection cover and found nothing. the knick's I saw earlier were from the screwdriver slipping off as I turned the flywheel! As soon as it stops raining I am going to start the car up and try and get a better idea exactly where the grinding noise is coming from.Hope it's not the bearings, but it's looking that way. :x

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