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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:50 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
The push button came loose and fell back inside the mechanism. I was able to fish it out. Now, I need to figure out how to put it back on. Any ideas?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:21 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:17 am
Posts: 69
Location: Australia
Car Model:
The big boys will be able to steer you right, but I recently had the pushbuttons out on my '63.

According to the shop manual, you should remove the front bezel and take all the other pushbuttons off (they are just pushed on).

Next get a socket on a long extension and remove the two nuts down behind the globe. This releases the mechanism in the back. Pull it down where you can get at the N button and rehook the N button across and down into its slot on the slider. (look at the rear of the N button to be sure that you have hooked it in - check that the end of the plastic isn't broken).

Poke the mechanism back up and reconnect the nuts, slide all the other buttons back on, replace the felt gasket and the bezel ... WALA!

Let's know how you go

_________________
Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 1:36 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
Well I'll certainly give that a shot. Thanks for the advice.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:12 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
Car Model:
Each button is held to its slide arm by a simple 2-prong fork which engages with slots on the top and bottom of the inner end of the button. The Neutral button is the first one to loosen up because when you throw the Park lever, the button is pulled inward, exerting slight loosening force on that fork-to-slot junction Over half a century's time(!), the slight pulls add up to enough to cause the button to part company with the slide. A very(!) slight squeeze of the fork tines towards each other before reinstalling the button will address the issue. You want a nice tight fit of the button, but not so tight that it breaks.

Do whatever you can to effect this repair without removing the button box from the back of the dash. The back of the dash of a '60-'62 Valiant/Lancer is a hideously unpleasant place to work. There is no room to do anything. It will be worth your while to buy whatever extra-super-long-nose needle-nose pliers it takes to get at that slide arm fork from the front. Only remove the button box as a last resort.

While you are in there, replace the bulb (use a length of rubber hose to R&R) and lubricate the slides, from front and back, as well as the pivots and cables, with spray silicone.

_________________
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:15 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
Each button is held to its slide arm by a simple 2-prong fork which engages with slots on the top and bottom of the inner end of the button. The Neutral button is the first one to loosen up because when you throw the Park lever, the button is pulled inward, exerting slight loosening force on that fork-to-slot junction Over half a century's time(!), the slight pulls add up to enough to cause the button to part company with the slide. A very(!) slight squeeze of the fork tines towards each other before reinstalling the button will address the issue. You want a nice tight fit of the button, but not so tight that it breaks.

Do whatever you can to effect this repair without removing the button box from the back of the dash. The back of the dash of a '60-'62 Valiant/Lancer is a hideously unpleasant place to work. There is no room to do anything. It will be worth your while to buy whatever extra-super-long-nose needle-nose pliers it takes to get at that slide arm fork from the front. Only remove the button box as a last resort.

While you are in there, replace the bulb (use a length of rubber hose to R&R) and lubricate the slides, from front and back, as well as the pivots and cables, with spray silicone.

Thanks Dan, sounds like I have my work cut out. I've tried the needle nose plyers with no success. Hard to see what you are doing. How the heack does one get to the back. I can't see any place that allows access.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:47 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
How the heack does one get to the back. I can't see any place that allows access.
Do you have the '61 Lancer factory service manual? You'll need it!

Disconnect the battery.
Remove the steering wheel.
Lower the steering column.
Remove the wiper and headlight switch knobs.
Remove the instrument cluster faceplate.
Remove the gauges.
Disconnect the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer.
Disconnect wires and remove the gauge/speedometer inner housing (painted white -- don't recall whether the fasteners for this are removed from front or from back).
Now you should be able to reach thru the outer housing and get "access" (ha ha ha) to the back of the button box.

A good assortment of tools including SAE and Metric bottles of bourbon will help.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:54 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
Holy Crap!!!! They really made it easy. My buddy loaned me his motors manual for that year and the description it gives makes it sound easy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:44 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24805
Location: North America
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Well, forge on ahead with it and let us know afterward whether it was easy or hard!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:51 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
Will do


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 9:31 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 5:12 am
Posts: 116
Location: madison, wi.
Car Model:
i see that this is an old thread, but wouldn't it be a lot easier to convert to a floor shifter?

_________________
Most of the stuff people worry about ain't never gonna happen anyway!!!
chuck Anglemyer
chucks' rod garage


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 Post subject: Push button
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 9:18 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
I need to clean up some of my old threads. Yes, it would of been easier however i didn't want to lose the cool factor with the push button. I ended up pulling the dash and re-installing the button. Works great now.

In answer to the question of it being difficult, it wasn't that hard. Pretty simple actually. It also gave me a chance to replace some light bulbs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:19 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 5:12 am
Posts: 116
Location: madison, wi.
Car Model:
i ran accross your thread, as i just bought a 62 lancer gt, nice car, but it also is missing the neutral button, and maybe more.not sure what all is sup[pose to be in that hole. i see no button, or rod for the button to go on. looking in with a flashlight, nothing in there for about 2"
not sure what to do at this p[oint except take out the entire unit and see what i'm up against. as you were, i'm not sure how to take the assembly out, did you follow dan's instructions? i have purchased a factory service manual, but it won't be here for about a week. it would be nice to keep the push button set up if possible, but may need to locate a complete assembly if the parts aren't all there. it works just fine as it is, but have no neutral, but i can put it in park instead.

_________________
Most of the stuff people worry about ain't never gonna happen anyway!!!
chuck Anglemyer
chucks' rod garage


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 3:43 pm 
Offline
3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 65
Location: Yakima, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
i ran accross your thread, as i just bought a 62 lancer gt, nice car, but it also is missing the neutral button, and maybe more.not sure what all is sup[pose to be in that hole. i see no button, or rod for the button to go on. looking in with a flashlight, nothing in there for about 2"
not sure what to do at this p[oint except take out the entire unit and see what i'm up against. as you were, i'm not sure how to take the assembly out, did you follow dan's instructions? i have purchased a factory service manual, but it won't be here for about a week. it would be nice to keep the push button set up if possible, but may need to locate a complete assembly if the parts aren't all there. it works just fine as it is, but have no neutral, but i can put it in park instead.

The push button and plastic rod is all one piece. The end of the rod is shaped like a horse shoe and fits into a slot in the shifter mechanism. It was still loose when I installed the rod so what I did was to put some RTV on the end of the rod and insert it into the slot. I let it setup over night and put everything back the next day. Someone on the site may have one of those and not may have the complete mechanism. I have one for a 64 Dart but I think it's a little different. You may want to ask Dan.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 5:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 5:12 am
Posts: 116
Location: madison, wi.
Car Model:
yes, i'm not seeing any plastic rod in the hole, or the button. once i get it apart, i'll see what i have. may be able to make what i need.

_________________
Most of the stuff people worry about ain't never gonna happen anyway!!!
chuck Anglemyer
chucks' rod garage


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 Post subject: Mine's a '63
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:52 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
User avatar

Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:17 am
Posts: 69
Location: Australia
Car Model:
Mine's a '63 - but i think that it will be basically the same.

Like all things once you've got in there and seen it you will understand it all better.
The pushbutton plastic selector will probably be lying down inside of the selector box and that's why you can't see it, even with the flashlight.

When you get it apart and look at all the parts, this whole thread will likely make a lot more sense.

If you have any more probs just keep posting, as there is sure to be some more help available for you on this site.

If not you could always PM SSD he's a champ and I'm sure that he won't mind.
Good luck and keep us posted.

_________________
Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!


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