Anyone done this? I have a Modine unit to go in and wondered what I'm into. The latest Mopar Muscle has an article on this very topic, just not sure what car they use, but it looks doable. Anyone got any tips. Mine is a 72 /6 Dart Swinger, no cold weather driving planned I just want to make it right.

I have done it where I have changed the heater core with the heater box in the car and with the box out.

If I had to do it again, I would remove the entire heater box and replace the core outside of the car. In my opinion it is just a bit easier. Also be careful about spilling coolant on your carpet.

The main thing is not to force anything. The first time I replaced my heater core I sort of forced the tubing in to place. (You have to go through a set stet of holes in the box and another in the firewall.) I ended up with a small leak in the joint where the tubing enters the core.

The second time (when I was repairing the small leak), I bought a new core. The new one I got didn’t have the correct bends and wouldn’t go in unless I forced it. I learned my lesson there. I returned it an had my old one repaired.

Good luck,

John

Oh, mine is in a 63 Valiant. I’m not sure how similar they are.

I agree with killin 5. Its far easier to remove the entire heater box. You didn't state if you had AC so I"ll assume you don't. If you did it gets more complicated as the freon must be evacuated. If you remove the glove box liner it will help make things more accessible. Once it's out you can clean up the squirrel cage and get all the leaves and other debris out without getting it all over the interior.
If you don't already have one a shop manual is a invaluable tool when doing this kind of repair. For practice, go to your favorite 'yard' and try your hand at removing one. If something breaks, consider it a learning tool. Both the '63 and the '72 are similar. Good Luck.

If your 72 is like my 75 Valiant heater (no AC) then just take out the whole heater box. Some years back when I was having heater core troubles I got good enough that it only took me 10 minutes to remove the heater box and take the core out.
After removing the heater hoses, I used an air hose to GENTLY blow through the heater core to blow out excess antifreeze, then it did not spill all over the carpent when removing the heater box.
If I remember right....... remvoe the 2 heater hoses, then you remove the 3 nuts around the heater motor on the engine side of the fire wall. Now go inside the car and remove the glove box, disconnect the 2 control cables, and maybe unplug some wiring, then disconnect the "J" bolt up inside the right vent door. After that the whole heater box pulls back away from the dash and drops out (might have to tip it the right way so it clears the dash). It's quick and easy after you know how.

Thanks guys, sounds like out of the car is the way to go. I'll get to it shortly, season is almost over here.

I've done this about 5 times over the last few years, you don't have to remove the glove box to get it out, put an old towel down to catch any excess coolant just incase.

Also get some high temp silicone (not RTV), the OEM core was installed into the box with a bit of sealant to keep the air flowing through the core not around it, so I 'puckey' it back up with new sealant (RTV/Gasket maker has a mild acid in it to etch the metal on the mating surface...this isn't good for the copper the new core is made of...)...
I also put a small bit of goop around the mating surface of the 'heater box', that way it hold pressure better and your defrosters will 'unfog' the windows better during those rainy days...

Another good tip is getting a roll of 1/8" 3m foam tape in a 2" wide roll (they use this stuff to seal canopies to truck beds...). The heater door is covered in a green foam that by now should be dry,powdery and might even be blowing little green specks all over your dash when the 'high' setting is used...pull the heater door (take pictures or notes for replacement), remove the foam, and recover using the 3M foam tape, it will seal and divert better and not have that nasty smell or green dash dandruff....


If you really are going for full restoration and bullet proofness, I also get a 6"x9" peice of .025 aluminum and a pair of tin snips and pattern the cardboard 'runner' for the 'floor' outlet and replace the old crappy cardboard with a nice durable light peice of aluminum (one less thing to get soggy when your new heater core goes bad in 6 years or so...)


FYI,

-D.Idiot

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=33548

Anyone ever buy from these guys??

thanks

Joe

You should be able to get one at a local auto parts store for that price. I think NAPA or Discount auto should be able to get one.

You might find a cheaper one at a radiator shop.

The only reason I would say not to buy one from them is that if you have a problem with it fitting your application, you would need to pay the shipping to return it. Plus the down time.

Good Luck,

John

OK - good point...

I need to pull out my entire heater system - clean it, replace the hoses, replace the core and put it back together... Are there any other parts that I should get or will need?

It's a 63 Valiant, 170, 3 on the tree, 2 door.