keep in mind that the tangs and slots are there to align the bearing and rod for the initial install. The bearing ends crush together when the rod cap is tightened, forcing the OD of the bearing wall to the ID of the cap and rod,,that's what holds the bearing in place during operation.

I am going to contact campbell enterprises tomorrow and let them know my set of rods is also wrong- i need to measure the tang on the bearings I have I, but i assume they they to are about the same as the king bearings-

if one were to grind the notches out how would you know that the bearing is centered properly on the journal? also what size/type dremel wheel have others used to fix it

this is a very disappointing turn of events as the short block is ready to go together aside from this bs

Here is a pic of dremel I used to widen groove, got them at local sears craftsman store, only needed one to get job done. You only have to remove material on one side of groove, work slowly untill bearing fits into groove.

in your picture it looks as though you are grinding the inside portion of the groove- does this get the bearing centered in the rod end?

maybe the difference is negligible really- as long as the tang is fully seated in the rod cap it should be fine-

I did get the crank in the block with the ARP main studs this weekend- main bearing clearances are .0004"-.0005" snug but good- so not a total loss

[quote="SLANTEDRAM I did get the crank in the block with the ARP main studs this weekend- main bearing clearances are .0004"-.0005" snug but good- so not a total loss[/quote]

I wouldn't call .0004"-.0005" bearing clearance good. It actually would be very alarming. You should look into why it is that tight.

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I would shoot for 0.002"- 0.0025" main clearance, and no tighter than 0.0015" for any kind of performance engine.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I think i will recheck those clearances and perhaps my decimal point!

0.004" would be too loose....

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I do believe I ground on the inside, you want to center bearing in cap & rod, sit bearing on cap and center it,one edge of bearing tang should line up, then you will see how mutch you have to grind, its about the witdth of the cut off wheel,LOOK & THINK, LOOK & THINK before you grind, material grinds really easy, alot easyer than I through it would, and it doesn't have to be an exact fit if you cut a little to mutch just pull bearing to the factory machined side, like Dad Truck said once its torqued the crush is going to hold it, but try to remove as little material as possible. Was your crank ground under size or is it standard .0004-.0005 is way to tight you will over heat & spin bearings, I got a set of bad bearings for a small block once, was to tight also & was a brand name bearing

I may have screwed up the measurements on the main bearings. I will be rechecking them this weekend. The crank is .010/.010 and I am using sealed power bearings. Thanks for your info regarding the rods I will be cleaning up that mess this weekend also.