Good morning!

I have a friend that has generously agreed to loan me his engine yanking equipment for an evening to get it mounted on my new stand. All I need now are the bolt sizes for the holes in the cylinder head and the mounting locations on the stand.

I apologize if this is a dumb question, but I've never done this before and I don't trust my own measuring of bolt sizes yet. I searched the forum and didn't see this info listed.

Thanks!

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

The thread size is 3/8-16 unc for the tapped holes in the back of the block and for the "lift bracket" that mounts on the top of the cylinder head.
DD

I went to my local hardware store and bought Grade 8 bolts for this job. It may be overkill, but better safe than sorry and they're not that expensive.

Here's a picture of a lifting bracket I made out of angle iron. It's bolted to the two bosses provided on the head that Doc is referring to. I attached my chains on either end:



Good luck.

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Thank you both for the advice and pictures. I'll have to make one of those brackets.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

The bracket might make things easier, but isn't strictly necessary. Lou and I just pulled my engine several times with 3/8" bolts passed through the links in the lift chain.

I agree with Red79. A bracket is completely unnecessary. Two 3/8 bolts do the job.

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63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

Thanks for the info, guys. I'll be going to the hardware store tonight.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

I also just do bolts, but put washers under the heads to spread the load on the bolt, and keep the chain link flat so it doesn't go cockeye and side load the bolt either (it'll break or bend...I'd rather in not do the later then do the former...and drop the engine at the wrong time).

Grade 8 is a good choice.

-D.Idiot

That's exactly why I built a bracket.

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You can also use a serpentine belt from a late Ford truck looped around the block like a suitcase handle....but you had to have been there for that engine swap to believe it....

-D.Idiot

It's out! Thanks for the advice, everyone! We ended up using washers and grade 8 bolts, just to be sure.



I'm still trying to figure out the best way to center the engine on the stand, that's why it's still also on the hoist. That's another job for another day, though.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

I could not get mine centered on the crankshaft center line. Always was crankshaft just below but centered on the stand.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yeah, the Slant doesn't lend itself well to stand mounting, unfortunately. It's centered now, but a lower angle would most likely be better. Thanks for the tip.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

Yeah, it's a bit top-heavy on the stand, so be very careful when rotating it or moving it around.

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3/8 coarse thread.

For my engine stand I needed 2 -4" long to thread into the top of the block and 2-5" longs ones with nuts for the transmission through holes at the bottom (mid bottom) of the mounting face. My engine stand has 3" or 3.5" stand offs.

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Dan H
Dudes Ex Machina