Hi all,

Could use some help from all you experienced /6'ers........

a milky oil problem in the crankcase and a head that checked out OK resulted in going ahead with tearing down my 1965 /6 and finding a crack in the block right along one of the casting lines on the crank side. It was a bear to find! All fixed! (pinned up) and ready to go back together with polished crank, new rod bearings, new rings, new cam bearings, honed cylinders, brass freeze plugs, valve job and resurfaced head....baked and clean of paint......

I have a few questions to ask, would appreciate your help... I could sure use it.....

Is the stock engine paint color Chrysler red?, if so there is a ton of places that sell it. Any recommended sources/brand?

got the scoop on motor mounts from a recent post. - thanks! My driver's side is mushed. passenger side is good. thoughts on changing just the one?

Any recommended sources for a water pump? again, bunches of them out there and available. The one that came off looks like it was JB welded around the hose flange.

Thermostat temperature...many recommendations from the forum are to run a 195 degree thermostat... thoughts? Is that a good one to go back together with?

Break in oil and RPM? Have heard non-detergent 30wt with ZDDP additive? Standard oil filter OK?

I am sure more questions will come....thanks for anything you can share, it is greatly appreciated......

I'd wait to hear about the paint from one of our restoration gurus here. I painted our '63 engine red. We aren't going for stock colors with the car, so I wasn't too worried. I think the engine was red for these years.

If the passenger side mount is in good shape, you should be able to use it. They will sag a bit over time, so make sure it is at correct height. The distributor is close enough to the fender when the engine height is correct. I like to replace them as a set myself.

195° is a pretty safe bet.

Did you replace the cam and or lifters? If you replaced the cam and lifters, or replaced the lifters you will want to run it in. To re-use the old lifters, they must go back exactly where they came out. If you didn't keep track of which lifter went where, then don't re-use them without having them reground, or replacing with new.

The normal run in requires 20 minutes over 1500 to 2500 rpm. I like 2000 to 2500 rpm. 30 wt and zddp work fine. For run in, I use a napa over the counter filter. Doesn't have to be the expensive one. After the run-in, change the oil and filter. I prefer 10w30. Don't put synthetic or synthetic blend in until the rings seat. With iron rings, 1000 miles with varied engine speed. Chrome rings, you may want to go further. 3000 miles will do it.
Then run whatever you prefer. 10w30 synthetic is a good weight due to the relatively small bore size. Some folks like 5w30 and 0w30 weights, but I haven't had good luck with that.

I usually run whatever water pump the NAPA or Carquest boys hand me when I go for one. I've run remans from a local rebuilder with good results. So far, no issues. Others have had different results. Luck of the draw perhaps.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Appreciate all the feedback.

It's going back with same cam and same lifters in the exact spot they came out of. all were marked and bagged separately.

thanks again!

No need to do the cam run-in then.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

i would still use cam lube and run them back in