I hope to be ready shortly to start my car for the first time. But I have a question about the cam and break-in. The cam itself was in a car and run for a short time, but was removed I think after a couple weeks. They could not get it to run right, but I suspect that the cam was way retarded. Anyway, I got the used cam and have new lifters installed. So how do I do the break-in?

Thanks for the help,

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I'd do a standard break in like it was new. Slather everything up with assembly lube.

ZDDP if your of a mind to do so. It can't hurt.

The break in I use is 20 minutes varying above 2000 rpm. I don't let it get much over that. If something gets warm, oil pressure isn't right, or something leaks, shut down, fix whatever the problem is, then go back to where you left off. If you made it ten minutes, you've got ten to go.
Just don't let it idle until the wear pattern is well established. Loads are much higher on the flat tappet/cam contact surfaces at idle than at the higher break-in rpm.
I use the cheapest oil I can find for cam break-in, then drain and put a fresh filter on. My first cycle after that is 500 miles. After that, assuming you are running iron rings, you should be able to go to normal cycles and whatever oil you like best. Chrome may need more time to seat, so avoid synthetics for an additional period. Usually 1000 miles more will do it. The gapless rings had a couple thousand on them before I got ticked off and pulled the bottom end down to 29" HG to seat them.

Being the silly individual I am, I remove the spark plugs and crank the engine until I have oil pressure. Only when oil pressure comes up do I install the plugs and start up. Sometimes it takes a while to see pressure.

2¢

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ceej gives good advice. Did you pack the oil pump with vaseline or bearing grease? If not, you may want to do so before first startup. Also, don't make the error of selecting too heavy an engine oil. Use 5w30 at heaviest -- 5w20 is a better pick. You want the oil to get to each and every last little crevice and clearance as quickly as possible, and those clearances will never be tighter than they are now.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I also Fill the Oil filter 3/4 of the the way full before the first spin on... also I get oil down the standpipe and in the other hole under the oil filter... This helps prime the system for less of a dry start as well.


CJ's prime with no spark plugs for 30 seconds to a minute is great too!


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I figured to break it in as a new cam but thanks for the reinforcement! I did not pack the oil pump with vasoline. I will use 5-20 oil for break-in. And crank it until I get some oil pressure. This is actually a Jasper rebuild that was only a couple months old when I bought it. Then I got the "used" cam with a bag full of lifters that I installed in it. Since I had new lifters and had no idea where the original ones had been run, I just installed the new ones. Thus my question.

Thanks for the help,

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks for all the info here. I'm about to do a break in tomorrow myself, and I definitely wouldn't have got the run for 20 minutes using 5w20 then change it for breaking in a new cam. I probably would have just run the 5w20 for the entire first 500 miles.

Great tip.

_________________
63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.