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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:17 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:44 pm
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Location: Reno NV
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Got my distributor today. This is my first ever attempt at doing a recurve. I got an 876 Dist,it is used but has no shaft play, and the gap looked great all the way around,so its nice and straight. Sorry for the bad quality pictures,its from my phone.

My work station:
Image

Inside the torn down dist:
Image

I was excited to find the 9R gov:
Image

Not sure if the 11OR vac can is any good to use:
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:22 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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First things first I want to clean and relube everything. What is the best stuff to use for relubing?

What do you guys think of the Vac can?

This is all going in an 87 D100 with a stock motor,with a Weiand 4bbl,eddy 500,and hooker long tube headers. Backed by an 833 OD and 4.56 gears. I will be bumping up the compression,and going with a .5XX lift cam prob some time next year. I figure I will need to recurve then.

I have bigslant6fan's spring kit. I have read his write up a few times. My only trouble is I dont have a welder or welding skills. I need to know if I can just change the springs,clean and relube and just run it without modifying the slots like mentioned in his write up?

He recommended One green and one blue spring as a starting point. Any thoughts?


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 Post subject: Recurve
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 4:52 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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I have avoided any grease since it will dry out and become stiff over time.......I use 5-50W Castrol synthetic oil only.

Keep that heavy long looped secondary spring and start with the green spring from the kit for the primary spring.

Set at 6 degrees initial with 18 degrees mechanical (24 total) the 11R can should be fine to start with. You can always change it later if you have to.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 5:13 pm 
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In a pinch you can epoxy the slots, but I would think it would beat out in time. :shock:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 5:42 pm 
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Supercharged

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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
I wrapped some wire on the outside of the slots to shorten them.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject: Re: Recurve
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:10 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Quote:
I have avoided any grease since it will dry out and become stiff over time.......I use 5-50W Castrol synthetic oil only.

Keep that heavy long looped secondary spring and start with the green spring from the kit for the primary spring.

Set at 6 degrees initial with 18 degrees mechanical (24 total) the 11R can should be fine to start with. You can always change it later if you have to.
Ted-

The primary spring is green now,is it different in the one in the kit,or the same?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:12 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Quote:
In a pinch you can epoxy the slots, but I would think it would beat out in time. :shock:
Thats what bigslant6fan says,that epoxy is not a permanent solution.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:13 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Quote:
I wrapped some wire on the outside of the slots to shorten them.
Hmmm....never though of that!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:14 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Be careful, wrapped wire may interfere with the movement of the weights and the breaker plate.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:20 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Quote:
The primary spring is green now,is it different in the one in the kit,or the same?
It should be the same, but on re-mananufactured distributors they seem not to be consistent tension and maybe stretched out.

Use the kit green one first, then go stiffer from there. I wouldn't worry about shortening the slots to start off with especially since you have blues and blacks to really slow down the advance.

You have the long looped heavy secondary spring to stop the advance at 3000 rpm. I doubt you would be hitting the ends of the slots....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 5:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Thanks Ted,will do. I was actually kinda thinking the same thing last night;might as well replace the old spring with the new!


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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:50 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:01 pm
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Location: Taneytown, MD
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I think the secondary spring is too strong, I don't think it will be very useful. The 9R advance plate is close to ideal,leave it as-is, and try one green and one blue spring for a stock cam. You might also consider useing one or two steps colder spark plugs,since you've vastly improved the intake and exhaust system.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:02 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Reno NV
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Ok,so replace the green with a new green spring,and then replace the heavy black spring with a blue spring,correct? Just want to make sure!

Thank you


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 Post subject: .
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 6:23 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:01 pm
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Location: Taneytown, MD
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That's correct,goodbye 35 year old rust weakened springs. Ted prefers to use less mechanical advance,and more vacuum advance than I do. If you carry heavy loads,his recomendations are better. I prefer 10-12 BTC initail,and 32 at high speed,with vacuum adding another 15-20.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!! Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:44 pm
Posts: 721
Location: Reno NV
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Great,thank you again for all of your help!

Not really any heavy loads for me,mostly just putting around empty. I will start at 12 tdc,and see how she likes it.

Jared


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