we made rectangular frame out of wood(mostly 2x12, some 2x8) in my valiant's (my winter beater) trunk to put the right leaf spring on the bottom side of the trunk....(and keep the left one from coming all the way up)
if i get around to uploading them to a host site, ill put up pics on here sometime....
its also got a torsion bar part of the way through the frame on the right side....
whaddya want for $100?

Seeing that it never rains in California.....
I don't have much experience with major rust repairs.
(I have welded-in new sheetmetal but not structural stuff)

Hate to say that my vote is to find a rust free replacement car and part-out the rusty one.
In the end you will have a better car for less money.
DD

Sounds like you two of you have had allot of good years together. But you know the nice thing about cars is no one will think bad of you for dumping the old gal for something sweeter. Just an option though, she may have overriding good caractor Bruce J.

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78b4ramSnortbed/6

actually my valiant is to keep my 67 dart gt rust free, current costs:
$100 for car
$25 for electronic ignotion module
$1 for wire connector that was broken
around $15 for hardware....

I have to agree with Doug. You'll end up putting more in than what the car is worth. There are still good ones out there. Heck, I only paid 500 for my heap. Had to put a $125 junk yard trans and a $20 master cylinder when I got it. I later got a free engine (traded for parts off my late Fury) when the original started blowing oil out of every place open. Of course, my car is also relitivly rust free...... Just recently a friend pointed out a '65 Dart sedan for 200 bucks. It had a blown slant, and had no rust, great paint and a nice interior. They are still out there....

I just inspected a 1978 Dodge Aspen Wagon in good shape at a used car lot, interior is in good condition and everything in in dark brown...It even has a super six under the hood and runs good too...$350 OBO....

-D.Idiot