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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:10 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:03 pm
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So when does the plug wire/sparkplug leak happen? At all time times under all conditions? If it happens at idle, then maybe you can see this in the dark. I have never seen this on new parts. But then, you are applying late technology high energy ignition power to old fashioned, low tech delivery equipment.

You might try the wires Charlie suggested instead of shielding them yourself, at least as a start. Magnocor wires made my AM radio unusable. Switching to stock radio suppression wires with internal shielding wound around wire cores, the AM radio became much better.

Sam
It happens under load under 1500 rpm. Very rarely at idle, though it does happen at times. I've not sat and watched it in the dark, but you can hear it when it does. The misfire happens when it's the leanest under load. And it's just a single misfire you can hear and feel, randomly.

Which magnecor wires did you use? They make multiple wires. The ones in the CN series are the highly suppressive wires. Magnecor's website's rather... ohhh... They make grand and wonderful claims, but I have a tough time accepting all of it, or that the differences are as high as they claim.

A couple of HAM websites reccommend Magnecor, but ONLY the CN series, which is very expensive... about a $100 and I have not been able to determine if they're custom made for the wireset I need, which is a Chrysler 3.3 - LH body series.


edit: I yanked one of the suspect wires off, and one of the things I noticed, comparing it to the previous wires I had (which didn't miss nearly as much, I had only one wire that did, when the connector pulled off the wire and stuck to the plug) is that the boot doesn't go as far down the plug. ( I have hung onto them, since I had some concerns about the spark jumping to the braided shielding and wanted an instant replacement, should it become an issue )

The space between the plug and head is totally marginal anyway, as it concerns spark jumping, so this might be why. This is not a problem for the 3.3 engine, as there's nowhere for it to jump on a 3.3 except to the metal shell, which won't happen unless the boot becomes conductive.

I'll get another set, based on examining them and making sure the boot goes very deep on the plug and I'll change plugs again (heat range change) as an experiment. Mind you, I HATE carbon type or non-magnetic suppressor core wires, but I have nothing else available locally.

_________________
'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 11:40 am 
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Weren't those wire shields proven to be gimmicks? I recall reading they create a capacitor like effect between the conductor in the wire and the shield itself causing even more misfires as the spark leaked through the shield.

On my slant (megasquirt driven edis with a dodge 3.5l intrepid coil pack) I use magnecore cn25 series wire. They sell it by the foot, can recall how much it cost. They sell individual terminals boots etc but I liked the msd ones better - seperate crimp for the conductor and the insulation crimp area has tangs on it to help deter the terminal from sliding off.

You have to call magnecore direct for bulk wire. They will also custom make any wire/terminals/lengths if you don't want to DIY it.

Edit: Now I recall, it was in the neighborhood of $4-5 a foot. I put the coil pack where the stock alternator was so didn't need too much wire. $100 isn't bad for a set of "lifetime" wires esp compared to all what you have spent so far.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 2:07 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:03 pm
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Weren't those wire shields proven to be gimmicks? I recall reading they create a capacitor like effect between the conductor in the wire and the shield itself causing even more misfires as the spark leaked through the shield.

On my slant (megasquirt driven edis with a dodge 3.5l intrepid coil pack) I use magnecore cn25 series wire. They sell it by the foot, can recall how much it cost. They sell individual terminals boots etc but I liked the msd ones better - seperate crimp for the conductor and the insulation crimp area has tangs on it to help deter the terminal from sliding off.

You have to call magnecore direct for bulk wire. They will also custom make any wire/terminals/lengths if you don't want to DIY it.
The braiding I bought out of China, it cost me only a few dollars for all of it. It was VERY effective at ignition noise reduction. I was running non-resistor plugs, and the noise was reduced from so bad the cb radio could not be heard, down to "slightly annoying" - which I assume was radiated from small area between the wire end of the boot to the plug itself.

As a test, I bought some Beldens from the local Napa (got a 10% off by reserving them online, a NAPA special) and put them on. With RV9YC's in place of the NGK racing plugs, the noise level is slightly down from before (I did not put on the braiding), but the missing is gone. No big fan of the Belden's, though, because the long ones are MUCH longer and the short ones are MUCH shorter. I have no idea how you'd make them work, even on the stated application. I had to use one of my old MAG-XTS wires ( great boots, but the terminals come off real easy ) becuase the one Belden was 5 inches shorter.

The issue is apparent, after inspecting all the ends. Some of the Bosch wires have the connector MUCH closer to the end of the boot, some are a mere 1/4 inch shallower. I'd guess they're all about 7/8 or so deep into the boot (beldens). Some of the Bosch ones appear to be 1/2 inch or less. The MAG-XTS cheapos had the boot extend almost to the metal shell on the plug.

For now, I'll run what I have. Someday, when I have money, I'll check out Magnecor wires, and see how they behave.

_________________
'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 2:15 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 363
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Edit: Now I recall, it was in the neighborhood of $4-5 a foot. I put the coil pack where the stock alternator was so didn't need too much wire. $100 isn't bad for a set of "lifetime" wires esp compared to all what you have spent so far.
Including the shielding and even wires I bought today ( 3 sets total) I have only about 65 bucks in it since before last year at this time. Yes, I am good at finding bargains on the stuff I want, by buying stuff ahead of time when I happen to run across deals.

_________________
'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.


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