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 Post subject: bronze valve guides
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:39 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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anyone run these ?
street...racing...
how do you like them
we would use them on air cooled Harleys back in the day.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:53 am 
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No race build-ups under my belt, but I specify bronze guides in every head buildup.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:36 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Bronze guides or at the least guide liners is the only way to go for street or race.

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 Post subject: x3
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
I specify bronze guides in every head buildup.
That's a must do, and good insurance for the money to keep the wear down on the guides even with a high lift cam, or a motor that will see a rebuild in 200K...

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
bronze in everything I build.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 6:28 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:05 pm
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Location: Phoenix AZ
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Bronze!! Some of the guys at last year's March race @ Speedworld AZ remember I stuck a valve on my way home after racing all night...

Got SUPER lucky and only kissed the piston...

After I got the head torn down, all my exhaust valves were hanging up lol... and for those saying clearance issue, they HAND hone every guide.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:19 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 12:53 pm
Posts: 157
Location: Ameliasburgh Ontario Canada
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As mentioned in the above post, the #1 cause of new engine destruction is bronze EXHAUST guides. All nicely detailed in the above post. As a machinist and engine builder I have seen it a hundred times. I use cast iron exhaust guides except in aluminum heads where bronze can survive. Smokey Yunick once wrote that exotic valve guides should be put where the sun doesn't shine.

So lets start over. bronze guides? Why?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a cast iron guide and it is absolutely trouble free.

You can replace your exhaust guides with bronze but to get them to survive in a racing situation you must clearance them to the point that the guide is as lose or loser than the worn guide you replaced (.00275 to .003"), in which case you have to ask yourself, Why am I doing this? Otherwise you will make one or two passes and then on the next one the ex. valve will more often than not hang up in the bronze guide for a split second. Sometimes like above you get lucky. Sometimes the motor goes. I absolutely refuse to use them in a cast iron head.
They work much better in bench racing than real life and there is absolutely no good reason to use them except that they can be installed without a proper guide machine. In other words they are a cheap Mickey Mouse repair. Even solid guides can give a lot of trouble in the exhaust in a severe service situation. I love it though when my competition uses them! ;>)

If you use them and are extremely lucky you might get away with it, but maybe not. If you use cast iron you will have absolutely no trouble. The choice is yours. Maybe or trouble free. I have made my choice. SBI cast iron guides. Quality and reliability.
Don

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Phoenix AZ
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Quote:
As mentioned in the above post, the #1 cause of new engine destruction is bronze EXHAUST guides. All nicely detailed in the above post. As a machinist and engine builder I have seen it a hundred times. I use cast iron exhaust guides except in aluminum heads where bronze can survive. Smokey Yunick once wrote that exotic valve guides should be put where the sun doesn't shine.

So lets start over. bronze guides? Why?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a cast iron guide and it is absolutely trouble free.

You can replace your exhaust guides with bronze but to get them to survive in a racing situation you must clearance them to the point that the guide is as lose or loser than the worn guide you replaced (.00275 to .003"), in which case you have to ask yourself, Why am I doing this? Otherwise you will make one or two passes and then on the next one the ex. valve will more often than not hang up in the bronze guide for a split second. Sometimes like above you get lucky. Sometimes the motor goes. I absolutely refuse to use them in a cast iron head.
They work much better in bench racing than real life and there is absolutely no good reason to use them except that they can be installed without a proper guide machine. In other words they are a cheap Mickey Mouse repair. Even solid guides can give a lot of trouble in the exhaust in a severe service situation. I love it though when my competition uses them! ;>)

If you use them and are extremely lucky you might get away with it, but maybe not. If you use cast iron you will have absolutely no trouble. The choice is yours. Maybe or trouble free. I have made my choice. SBI cast iron guides. Quality and reliability.
Don
umm... read must have read what you wanted to read because I was running steel guides and it/they stuck... switched to bronze and haven't had an issue...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 5:10 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 12:53 pm
Posts: 157
Location: Ameliasburgh Ontario Canada
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I have been building engines for a part of my trade (ASE master engine machinist and Ont Class A Mech) for over 40 years and have sent some as far away as Europe. I stand by what I said. You use them because you perceive them to be better mostly because they are different and that is simply too much of an attraction to some people.

But suit yourself. Waste your money and bust your motors for no good reason. 'Tis after all your dime.
Don

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:11 pm 
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There is good reason to run Iron guides in iron heads. Primarily the thermal expansion characteristics of the guide in relationship to the head.

About 1/3 of the heat transfer from the valve is transmitted through the guide. Iron does that very well.

Bronze provides better lubricity, and is normally not as prone to galling and seizure. With some valve materials, this would be more or less apparent.

Talk about the reasons behind the material choice freely. Not based on how you've always done it, but why you would choose to run a specific material. I choose the Bronze for the lubricating characteristics for Stainless Valves, used with positive valve seals.

We're not going to censor people for speaking their mind about something technical here.

Iron is an ideal choice for a street driven engine with steel stems.

2¢

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
The problem people run into with bronze guides is using the PC type seals. Use an umbrella seal and you'll have no issues.

I've run exhaust valves with no seal at all.

I don't like the PC seals for the street either, but that's just me. :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:17 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Phoenix AZ
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Well I go to San Diego for the weekend and this blew up lol...

As to what... "don"... said I have all the 6 Stainless valves that have serious scratches on them.

As for different guides and seal combos for different apps I totally agree. I was thinking of going to no exh. seal as, like said, it keeps it lubed and helps cool a bit.

And thanks for the back up guys... wasn't trying to start stink lol...

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1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
You're fine with your combination. Bronze is the right choice.

I figured you had a thick enough skin not to worry about this. That, and you know what your about. Your car screams! :D

I know, I need to lose a few pounds... Jenny Craig just doesn't look that appetizing! Maybe Dan will post something up of what he prepared for dinner! One of these days I'm going to go barging in to feast on one of his creations! :lol: Seeing some of his blog, he eats better out of his kitchen than most ever eat! I think he's a closet chef, but don't tell him I said that!

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:50 pm 
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No big dinner creations lately. Made raisin french toast and fresh blueberries with real, actual maple syrup for breakfast the other day, though. Anyone feel like telling me I'm a liar and it wasn't actually delicious? Good. Didn't think so.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:21 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I hope we can all agree to disagree. I need the info from all of you to help me stretch my limited knowledge. I try to learn from everyone here and hope you will all stay around and keep posting.

I will be doing another head here soon and need the info to know what to do and what is best for my application. I did do a quick search on the net and did find some people that were having bronze guides seize up on the exhaust side and cause serious engine damage. Not sure how many, but but that info was out there to read.

Thanks to all,

Rick

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