OK, I was on the Clifford Performance site looking at intakes , I am torn between a four barrel carb, or saving some money and going all out for a set of webbers . Clifford performance suggests a 390 cfm 4 barrel carb for a six cylinder, but I hear a lot of folks on here talking about 500 cfm carbs.

Can I run a 500 cfm carb on a stock slant or should I go down to a 390? Also Cliffords 4 barrel intakes can only be used with headers, is there a 4 barrel intake that will bolt up to the stock exhuast manifold?

Also i a previous post a few days ago I mentioned some oil leaks. I thought they may be from the seals, however from further investigation it looks like it is time for new oil pan and trans pan gaskets. My manual says that the oil pan gasket takes some work to replace with the motor in the car. Is there any short cuts or tips anyone can give me?

I hear lots of people trying to get the offy since it bolts up to the stock manifold if going single pipe or dutra duals. If going mild performance 390 is a cute little carb that does the job fine, you can use the 500 with a smidge of tuning if it's a Vaccuum Secondary carb, and that will give you more carb for later if you decide to make some more performance mods...

-D.Idiot

For the oil pan and trans pan leaks, have you tried re-tightening all the bolts?
DD

Thanks DI, my only concern with the webbers is what I am going to use to hook up my kickdown. I know that on the proline fuel site it says I will have to fab something. I'm sure I have the ability to do this but just want to make sure that I get it right.

Hey Doc,

No I have not tried that. The car is bone stock and all original with 92,000 miles on it. I just thought it might be about time for those items to be replaced, however I have some time this evening and I can get under the thing and tighten the bolts up and see if that makes a difference.

Give the re-tightening a try, I have fixed "leakers" by retightening the bolts.
Don't get too carried away, just make sure all the bolts are snug.
DD

Use brake cleaner to clean around the oil pan gasket and whipe clean, then take your favorite silicon sealer, put a dab on your finger, and smudge it inbetween the crevice between the pan and motor. In the end, you should have a smooth transition between the pan and motor because of the silicon. This is what I did when I assembeld my motor fresh, and it worked well.

Hey,

I will try tightening the bolts first but will consider the silicon trick if that fails. I am not at all worried about replacing the trans pan gasket if I have to, it just sounded like a pretty drawn out process to change the oil pan gasket with the motor in the car.

Just saw a bbd that was installed sideways with 1 inch of the throttle rod cut off and threaded with a adaptor made from steel tubing, one to bolt to carburetor the other to screw onto the rod, hence no kickdown modifications, just some of drilling and tapping. Stock choke would be a challenge as this car was not using one, but with some work bet you could mount a electric unit.

_________________
Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

Hey Doc,

Got under the Dart and tightened up all the bolts on the pans, the trans pan bolts were pretty loose, the oil pan bolts didn't seem to be that loose but I gave them a tweak anyway. Drove it to work this morning, I should be able to see if it made any difference by the end of the day.

Now if I can just get a few other small kinks worked out, the Dart would be in good shape!

Thanks for everyones help, it makes a world of difference having a great group of people to brainstorm problems.

Hey, it was worth a shot. I hope it solves the problem.

This was a great idea, I went from a sizable puddle of oil under the car to just a few drops! Worth the 30 minutes it took to get the car up on the jacks and get it done, not to mention saving money and effort.

Thanks Doc!

If I get the offy 4 barrel intake and the Holly 390 cfm carb will I have to modify my throttle or kickdown linkages?