I had my Dart idling in the driveway yesterday, it had warmed up and was idling pretty low (normal), but all of a sudden it just dropped off and died. I tried restarting it, but couldn't get it to fire again. Every consecutive time I retried, it would crank slower and slower, and after a few tries wouldn't crank. I tried later, it fired once, but died as soon as I let the key off start. I thought I would run this by you guys to see if it was something obvious before I pulled out my inexperiance and started tearing into things. Thanks. -zorg (it's a stock '76 225 w/ 225,000mi. if that makes a difference)

Ballast resister.

Definately

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Ive got a slanted attitude and a heavy right foot.

Sounds like a ballast resistor, but if the ballast resistor doesn't cure it, clean your battery terminals thoroughly and charge the battery.

If the ignition is not getting enough voltage from the battery or alternator, the engine won't run. It should be getting enough if the starter still turns, but that's the next thing I'd do.

Do you still hear the starter relay click when you hold the key instart position?

New Ballast Resistor. Same problem.

64 Convert, I'll try cleaning up the terminals, and see what happens. Out of curiosity, what do you do to clean them? Also, I don't have a battery charger (or anything more than a couple wrenches...). Would jumping it be of similar affect?

Pierre, I don't ever recall hearing it click, but it will still crank a few times before running out of juice. Am I thinking along the same lines as you?

Thanks again. -zorg

If you don't even hear a relay click (and the starter doesnt turn), its possible the battery died (assuming all was well before).

Be careful with the starter let it cool inbetween long cranks because if you keep cranking for minutes on end not only will it kill your battery but your starter (or relay) might overheat. I've killed a relay like this before.

I'd also check to see if you have spark at the wires to make sure the coil didn't croak.

But first things first, as mentioned before make sure your battery is in good condition. You can use a wire brush or some sandpaper to clean the terminals and make sure you have shiny metal on the battery posts touching shiny metal on the cable terminals. Methinks you describing your starter slowing down is an indication of a low battery.

Yesterday my '73 died a few times on the way home, when letting off the gas, but would start up again. When I got home, I let it idle for a while and it would run smooth then briefly stumble and almost die. Finally it died, and absolutely wouldn't start again. I checked all the usual suspects, then went and bought a ballast resistor, but it didn't help. I talked to a MOPAR buddy and he suggested an ignition module. I bought one for $20, put it on and fired that mother up.

I'm pretty lucky, last weekend I went on a 700-mile trip in the car through the vastness that is Wyoming. It wudda been tough breaking down out there.

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'73 Dodge Dart Swinger, /6, Clifford intake, Holley 390 cfm 4-bbl, clifford headers, dual exhaust

Take the battery to a auto parts store and have them check it out. If it checks good, they can put a quick charge on it so you can give it another try.

A jump start will work if your terminals are clean. I usually use a small pocket knife to shave off the hard coating on the battery terminals and the cables. You must get down to the soft lead before you can get a good connection. Then make sure the connections are tight, or it will corrode quickly.

first jump your battery for a little while to get some juice in there or borrow a good battery from another 'idle car' (your parents won't like you if you borrow theirs...)

Some tests that you can do with a buddy:

pull a plug wire from a plug and hold it (on the insulation) a 1/4" from a ground (engine block, alt housing, NOT the fuel filter or carb...) while cranking you should see a spark, if not (make sure your cap and rotor are clean on the contact points)you can try these tests:


with cars with the 5 pin EI from Mopar you should hook a test light from the negative side of the coil to a good ground turn the key 'on' but do not crank, jiggle key a bit too (have a friend help).

1) light blinks- ignition switch has a faulty connection-replace
2)light is solid and 'on': check ballast resistor
3)no light -chack all connections to make sure some wire isn't loose on the coil/ignition module/ballast resistor/forgot to turn the key 'on', also check wiring to 'cavity 2'(top one/middle) on the ignition module.


An 'ohmeter' can narrow things down after that. Make sure ignition is off.

An ohmeter across the coil terminals should give you a reading of 1-2 ohms according to some sources (someone might have a more specific number).

pull the connection from the distributor and put the leads into the 'socket'
on the distributor and you should have 150-900 ohms. If open the pickup coil is bad.
Plug the distributor lead back into the main circuit, put your test leads on cavity 4 & 5 (in the round part of the plug closest to the metal heatsink with the 'bump in the middle')on the control module connector you should have 150-900 ohms if the pickup is good. If nothing/high resistance, check your connections.
Leave one lead on the #5 cavity and put the other on a good ground, you should have some sign of continuity. If not pull the module and clean up the mounting parts (bolts and metal ears on module) and reinstall, check again if you have an open circuit the ignition module will need to be replaced.

A volt meter can test the various circuits in the ignition system, but your battery will have to be charged to 12 volts minimum on the chrysler EI system to get a good result.
Test the battery to see how many volts are registering:
All of these tests should determine which components might be bad in their EI circuits-when testing the circuit you should not have more than a 1 volt drop at the cavity point.

Cavity 1(point of the 5 pins): Ignition switch and ballast resistor
Cavity 2 (up and clockwise from #1): Ignition switch, Bottom of ballast resistor (primary), and coil
Cavity 3(clockwise from cavity 2): Both sides of Ballast resistor


If you have a 4 pin controller (most of the new replacements are this type) pin#3 should be missing and disregard that step (it's used to limit power to the coil at low RPM and keep it from


or you can replace all your ignition components (about $67 at autozone).

Commonly the Ballast Resistor and EI Controller go bad, if your coil is a few years old it might be time to replace it too(if in the stock location you'll have to remove the alternator to get at it...)

If that doesn't cure it: you'll be back to testing and checking wires anyway.
Currently doing this proceedure with my '74 so far the EI box (OEM original on the car, the ballast resistor and the coil all failed at the same time...I suspect something else might not be right with my ignition system...)

-D.Idiot

Went to clean up the battery terminals, and realized that the + clamp was cracked completely through... Still stuck together though! Decided it was time to replace it, so I followed the wires from it and unhooked them and thier destinations. I put a wrench to the larger bolt that held the wire on the starter... and snapped it clean! It appeared to be copper? So... anyone know starters? It looked like that top section of the starter could be taken off, and maybe I could just get another bolt, instead of another starter?

Kermit, I have another IM that supposedly still works (I think the origional by the looks of it, and knowing my parent's car maintenace habits). I'll put that on when I get this starter thing straightened out.

Pierre, I would think low battery as well, but it was idling fine for about 5 minuets before it up and died.

DI, I'll see if I can figure that out.

Keep the information comming, I'll try my hardest not to keep breaking things. -zorg

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Perfect excuse to upgrade to a ministarter. Yes, the studs are copper and are really quite soft.

"Kermit, I have another IM that supposedly still works (I think the origional by the looks of it, and knowing my parent's car maintenace habits). I'll put that on when I get this starter thing straightened out."

The funny thing is, re your post heading, my alternator went out yesterday! It has been singing to me but I guess I was in denial and didn't listen. Today the amp gauge reads -20 and sounds as if the brushes are gone and whatever was holding the brushes is now making the contact.

$30 after the core charge, 15 minute job, not too bad.

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'73 Dodge Dart Swinger, /6, Clifford intake, Holley 390 cfm 4-bbl, clifford headers, dual exhaust

Just curious how you turned out?

I got mine to run, new EI module, ballast resistor, even found the pickup coil went bad in the distributor, and after timing it I find the vacuum advance pod is dead... (I'll wait another day to swap that out....)...

-D.Idiot

So I can't open up the top of the starter and get another bolt? Or am I just going to have to try it? (and hope I don't break something else...)

Pierre, those mini starters, about how much do they run? I'll wait til my headers get here next week before I get a different starter.

DI, you forget I don't drive, and thus can let my repairs go on for ages... It all depends on when somebody else is going to the store as when I get my parts. I'll keep you updated...

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