I decided a while back the Lean Burn one barrel carb (and ignition) on my 1981 Dodge pickup had to go. I'm looking for performance boost but need to keep simplicity and efficiency in mind also. I'm not exactly an experienced mechanic and the intake/exhaust manifold stroies read on this board make me wonder if I even want to go there. Do I need a different exhaust manifold, or will the stock one work?
I bought a salvage yard two barrel manifold and a remanufactured Carter BBD, but I also have a good Weber 32/36 from a Jeep project.
Should I go through the manifold exchange and install the BBD, or just get an adapter, leave the manifold in place and put on the Weber?
What is the difference in output of these two setups? Am I even going to see much difference over the 1bbl?
All replies and advice are welcomed, thanks. This is a great website--I've already learned a lot about the /6.
Audnorge

Welcome, i would go with the carter,those adapters are known to act as restrictors,the upgrade is great it gives better milliage and it adds a little spice to your slant,as far as exa. manifolds go as long as your exa. has the open choke pocket you should be fine. and if you keep your exa. manifold get the outlet ported to 2 1/4 in. and upgrade your exaust pipe to the same with a free flowing muffler. i hope this helps. come back and ask questions often,
Jared

dart,

so far every 1980-1985 Ram I've torn down for parts has come with the big exhaust pipe, but usually have a resonator, a cat, sometimes a 'pre-cat' already attached with the poor 1 barrel feedback Holley 1945 or a lean burn version on the intake.

time to go 'yarding' for an education! (It's free, and no one yells at you when you break something! LOL)

-D.Idiot

i havent torn down anything other than a aspen,duster,challenger,dart im only 16 and having a lot of "yarding" ahead of me

If i understand, you're saying the adapter plate for the weber on the 1bbl manifold restricts the Weber's output. The decision then seems that I should take off the 1bbl manifold and put on the 2bbl manifold and reman Carter BBD I have?
Anyone else?

Gee's, sounds like what Im going through!!!! I have both a 1 and 2 bbl set up with the 2 on there now. I did have a BBD on there but I could'nt get it to even idle without chocking it or proping the throttle, so I go buy a Weber 32/36 and bolt it up. Now I can't even get the damn thing to run, I think the fuel pump dumped on me,[will know more on that later].
From what I've read here and other places, it seems like either carb will work well. My guess is whichever carb is easiest to convert without alot of linkage changes, etc. is the way to go. Or you can put 1 on and see how you like it, then swap to the other and go with the one that performs best. Hope this helps. Good Luck

The thing to know about Weber carbs is that they can only handle 3lbs of fuel pressure. A stock \6 fuel pump puts out about 5lbs. You need a fuel regulator to handle the pressure differential.

So called "remanufactured" Carter BBDs usually need to be adjusted before they can be used. The floats are usually sit too low, the rods are sit to high and if the throttle shaft leaks, you need to take them back. People have made several trips to the parts store to get a good working example.

There are various carbs in the 1 1/4" throttle bore size that can be used on the SuperSix manifold. The Rochester 2G used on various small GM V8s, V6s and L6s engines work nice. Stromberg made a carb in this size and I actually ran on for a while on my engine. The Jeep guys like the Rochester over the Carter.

If you move up to the 1 1/2" throttle bore size you will need an adapter for the carb to fit. This gets you into the Motorcraft/Autolite 2100 series, the Holley 2200s and the larger Carter BBDs and Rochester 2Gs. These came on medium sized V8s, 350ci to 400ci. The Jeep guys really love the Motorcraft as a superior carb to the Carter BBD.

Of course the ultimate 2v is the Holley 2300 series. This requires an adapter. The 2300s are basically the front half of a Holley 4150 series 4v and uses all of the jets, power valves and gaskets as it does.

Why am I mentioniong the Jeep guys so much? The 258/4.0/4.2 engine used the same Carter BBD that out slants used and they have a tendency to push there vehicles more then we do. Since the BBD doesn't work for them, they experiment more. Most of the Weber outfitters sell a Jeep conversion kit. Guess what, it works for us too.

The reason I have the Weber is I put it on my Jeep and never could get it to run right. I have had several 318s, so I feel I know the BBD.
What did you mean by 'bigger BBDs'? Were there different sizes?
If I went ahead and put on the 2bbl intake, and the Carter BBD I have did not work right, what would you go with?

I make it a point to send all bbd carbs out to have the throttle shafts rebushed in bronze and I don't rely on plastic caps to block off any unused ports, for these I will manfacture flush threaded plugs or fill by silver soldering.

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

GT63, is it a local shop that does the rebushing or some place out of state?

Thanks-Dart68

Rebushing wont help always. When I planned to do rebushing, it was not possible, because the throtlle shaft was also worn-out. So only way was to at make new shaft. And that is not very easy work, but i have a friend who is very skilled machinist. One other way to at block vacuum leaks could be that You put O-ring to throtlle shaft, that side where are lingages and put silicon rubber to the other end of the shaft.

Joug

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Sorry, my english is not very good

Dart 68 I use a guy in Denver, but disagree that it would be difficult to machine a new shaft, providing one had a lathe and accurate measuring tools. unsure as to the use of o-rings, much less silicone, seems they would get chewed up. Better approach if going to this much trouble would be to machine a solid stainless steel shaft with a step to accept teflon bushings.

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

Making new throttle shaft is NOT easy , If You don't have skills and machines for that work.Making shaft with lathe is only one part of the work. Trace for the throtlle flaps is the one difficult work, You'll need milling cutter (don't know if this is correct word), with very small cutter head. Also you need to put lingages back to the new shaft, but that is easier.

I'm also unsure about O-rings , but I have heard that it helps.

Joug

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Sorry, my english is not very good

Didn't mean to get off on the wrong foot. Agree 100% you must have the proper equiptment and skills to use it. Yes the throttle plates would require the use of cutting/milling tools and you would have to figure out to re-stake the linkage, all your points are valid. The reason I bring this up is i'm pondering a BBD that sits sideways with custom linkage to mate with a throttle rod and this would require a new shaft.

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

I finally got mine back into commission. Brief overview, new head, 2BBl intake/exhaust upgrade. I found a BBD and rebuilt it and had a hell of a time just trying to get it to run before worrying about the linkage swap and all. Got real frustrated with the BBD and got the weber 32/36 and couldn't be happier!!!! Bolted it up and fire it up, just that simple! Then came time to figure out the linkage. I took the throttle bracket off the 1 bbl holley and filed out the hole so that it would fit on the weber, along with alittle bending of other pieces on the bracket to make it work and hooked up the original linkage that was already there. I still have to tweek it but I didn't need to go junkin to find cables, linkages, etc. that would normally be needed to do this.
I don't know why people make a big fuss about the weber set up, just use your noodle when you convert it, I would recommend this mod to anybody that wants to go the 2 BBl upgrade at anytime!!!!!