so i finally got around to getting my exhaust manifold blasted, and painted up, ready for a mockup. i got my self the remflex setup, both heat riser, and manifold to head.

anyways i started mocking up the 2 manifolds as per the article. attached the 2 manifolds with the hotbox gasket, with 3 bolts hand tight. then layed it down on the head, and started from the center out, just hardly snug at all. then went back to the 3 manifold/manifold bolts, and torqued them down to 22ftlbs. as the article states. i slowly torqued them, from 15, to 18, to 20, then 22. so i didnt tight one side too much.

then i noticed that the ears of the gasket split, now im not sure if this is normal for this style of gasket (i never used a graphite gasket before), and is common, and people had no issues of running it as is, or should I tear it all back apart, and put a new gasket in place... but im sure it would just happen again. input?? thank you friends



manifold is painted with a high temp cast iron color paint, i think it looks great.

Leave it and run it. The important part is the gasket at the hotbox flanges, not the ears.

-D.Idiot

i was just thinking maybe somehow the gasket would start to split all the way around, then burn out.. but i guess its good to go.

now i just need to find a place to surface the manifolds flat. that seems to be the hard part.

Yup, it's normal and fine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

okay, i got another question, instead of starting new thread ill use this.

with out any gasket at all, the largest gap i have is .016, between manifold and head. since im using the remflex gasket, which states it will fix 1/16" of gap, im just not sure if the 10ftlb torque is enough to crush it, to take up that gap.

ive been trying to find a shop that will surface it, preferably a belt sander since it would be the quickest, and cheapest route, but i only found 2 shops, one with a blanchard grinder, and one with a mill, who is willing to do it, for more money then its worth, especially if the stock manifold eventually cracks.

my buddy has just got a mill, but its not ready, needs to be wired into his phase converter, and he needs collets. id just like to get this done quicker, and if i can get away with no surface that would be great

anyone check the gap of warped manifolds, and ran a remflex with no issues?

Put some wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface and do it yourself............(an actual use for WD40 tooo)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

got it surfaced on a blanchard grinder, found a shop who would do it for $50. took them about 15 mins.... a bit much but guess they gotta pay for the machine some how

I used the remflex box gasket successfully, and also installed a thin sheet of stainess steel that covered the entire open area between the manifolds.

I wanted to reduce the intake manifold's direct exposure to the exhast blast. I also wired the butterfly valve wide open to further deflect the hot gases.

I still get fast warm ups(I have a manual choke), but my carb doesn't get nearly as hot and boil the fuel in the bowl like it used to without the sheet metal blocking plate.

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1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible Super six