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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2003 7:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 12:51 pm
Posts: 246
Location: Lake City, FL
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A while back, I replaced the pinion seal on my 7 ¼ rear end. I finally have the car ready to be back on the road. In my initial test drive I discovered that I probably didn’t tighten the pinion nut enough. (Actually thinking back on it I know I didn’t 0>

I borrowed a torque wrench from a friend but it only goes up to 150 foot pounds. The torque spec says 210 foot pounds.

So here is the question. If I use the wrench and get it up to 150 and then torque it down some more, is there a way to tell if I am close without buying another wrench?

Thanks,

John Killin


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2003 8:36 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:54 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Hutchinson, MN
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The service manual procedure is to first measure how much torque it takes to rotate the pinion shaft BEFORE you take it apart ( with wheels and brake drums already removed.) Use an inch-pound torque wrench for that.

Then upon reassembly you torque the nut to a minimum 210 foot pounds then measure the torque to rotate the pinion shaft. It should be the same as before you took it apart. Then continue tightening (in small increments) until you obtain the original preload torque as before you took it apart, but it should not go more than 10 in/lb more than the original.

This is from a 1975 service manual. The procedure is outlined on a WHOLE page, I only gave you the very condensed version above.
I'm sure someone can scan the instructions for you.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2003 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
What year is this rearend?
Early 7 1/4 were shimmed pinion bearing and or not real sesitive to over-tighting.
Starting around 1970, the factory used a crush sleeve. (yes, in the 7 1/4)
A crush sleeve will bind-up the pinion bearings if over tightened, so the proceedure listed should be followed.
In your case you would need to "sneek-up" on the pre-load by tightening in small amounts until you feel the preload change, then stop at that point.
DD


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2003 9:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 12:51 pm
Posts: 246
Location: Lake City, FL
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This is a 63 rear.

Last night I think I got it. I basically did what Doug said about sneaking up on it. I may go back and work on it a little more. I was worried about going too tight.

After a test drive, the noise from the rear seamed to disappear. I am getting some noise from the front. I tightened the connection from the drive shaft to the transmission yoke this morning before work but didn't have time to test drive it. Hopefully I'm in the clear.

Craig, thanks for the info on the preload. In the 63 manual it just says to tighten to 240 minimum (don't quote me on that number).

Thanks again,

John


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