Hello everyone, I just picked up my first slant 6, a 1985 Dodge D100 3.7L 4-speed manual 2WD pickup.

The previous owner of my truck had apparently removed the air pump and all associated parts. I've been compiling a list of parts to purchase to get the system up and running, but I had a question:

So far I have been unable to source the diverter valve for the air pump. I have found a relief valve on factorychryslerparts.com that says it will work, but no other sites show that part as compatible.
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/pro ... 27670.html

The diverter valve seems to be discontinued... Is there a difference between the relief and diverter valve? Does it matter? And thirdly, is there anywhere I can get one for less than $80? That seems excessive.

I posted a thread in the parts wanted section, as I do need the entire air pump assembly. So if you could help me out, I'd appreciate it. If worst comes to worst, I'll just order the full lot of the factorychrysler website, but I'd prefer a cheaper option.

Thanks for looking, here are some pictures:

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1985 D100 3.7L Slant 6, 4-speed manual.

Neat truck -- the 4-speed is a real score.

It can be difficult and costly to piece together the '80s emissions systems. Most of the parts are no longer available new, and those that are available new are costly. These valves don't frequently fail, so a good used one should be an option.

Is the truck still equipped with its catalytic converter?

Can you show us a clear, sharp photo of the vehicle emission control information decal under the hood? Your 1985 model may or may not have come equipped with feedback mixture control (1- or 2-wire oxygen sensor screwed into the rear wall of the central collector of the exhaust manifold; electric wires going to carburetor).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Great truck, I have one identical except it's navy blue. Love the A833 OD tranny.

I would "finish their job" and tie up any lose ends as far as emissions go. Make it safe, better running and better on gas.

Trying to replace the things they have removed (except the critical ones) might be very hard to do. If you have to pass emissions, that might be a different story.

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1985 Dodge D100 with Slant Six, Standard Cab Short Bed

Here is the emissions diagram. I have a larger resolution one if you need it.


The truck does not still have a catalytic converter, and they missed that part in the inspection (already checked that off as OK). I have a quote to get one installed for $115, if I end up needing it.

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1985 D100 3.7L Slant 6, 4-speed manual.

For $115 installed, you won't get a catalytic converter that will last long at all -- not on an open-loop carbureted vehicle like your truck! It takes a good catalytic converter to hold up to that kind of abusive service and not restrict the exhaust.

It sounds like your inspector is a doofus who did a careless, sloppy job and didn't notice that the catalytic converter is missing. Depending on how often you have to get the truck inspected, this may or may not be a "free pass" on that, but I wouldn't count on it.

(Please pick either this thread or your other one to consolidate all your questions; it's kind of a nuisance for everyone to have to jump back and forth between two threads by the same poster on the same topic.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

+1. Back in 2008 or 2009, my brother asked me to help him get his neglected Dodge van to pass emissions. THe van originally had lean burn control and dual catalytic converters. A previous owner had hacked out the lean burn system and removed the air pump from the motor and hollowed out the cats. I scrounged a junkyard air pump and bracketry and installed a new Catco high-flow catalytic converter with air injection. The catalytic was around $100 if memory serves. The catalytic cleaned up the exhaust enough for the van to pass emissions, but it lasted less than a year before the catalytic honeycomb melted down and clogged the converter up.

My point is cheap catalytics don't last.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Per popular request, I'm consolidating the carb details from my "parts wanted" post to here.

I was trying to find out what type of carb I have VS what would be best for a stock setup.

Here are the pictures I was able to snap:





I have no idea where these go...


Thanks!

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1985 D100 3.7L Slant 6, 4-speed manual.

You have the same exact diagram as in my 87 van.

When I replaced my exhaust a few years ago, I found the pre-cat to be entirely unavailable.

The check valves/tubes were unavailable, but I had already ordered both from a Dodge dealer maybe 12 years ago, but never installed.

I bought all Walker exhaust parts from autowarehouse.com using a model year from the 70's (I'm going to try to look up and record this info as I will need to replace parts again at some point, I'm guessing.) as well as some other brand high-flow, heavy duty cat for the main cat position.

The head pipe had a bung exactly where the front check valve/tube attaches to the pre-cat, with the same exact thread-size.

I got a new smog pump and installed both NOS check-tube-whatevers.

I'm thinking you really don't need the downstream tube.

If I'm right, then you don't need the air switch either.

Just fit a check valve to the port in the head (unless the original is intact) and run a hose from the smog pump outlet to the check valve (earlier pump w/out air switch probably better option if you are replacing anyway w/junkyard parts--use junkyard single nipple flange, otherwise.)

Without the air switch, the corresponding solenoid would be obsolete as well.

(I'd have done this myself, if not for the bizarre bung miracle and NOS check/tubes lying around.)

That said, here's where I hijack your thread:

Since I have all this stuff installed and working, what should I do when the ESA is gone (HEI conversion) and nothing is actuating the solenoid? If I install a toggle switch to work the solenoid, under what conditions do I want upstream v.s downstream (& vice-versa)?

Can I use the ESA's temp sensor to operate a relay to control the valve in a slightly lower-tech-than-OEM fashion?

(These questions are directed towards Dan & Reed mainly, but any input is appreciated.)

Assuming Dan doesn't tear apart my upstream-only idea, I'd suggest losing that diagram before going back to inspection.

(1) No luck on the air pump. I know I used to have one, but I can't find it in my garage anymore. I MIGHT have it in my storage unit, and I will be getting in there this weekend, most likely. I'l look there.

(2)

(3)


(4)


The idle stop solenoid is the plug next to the voltage regulator in the wiring diagram I posted. Those diagrams are from a 1983 Dodge factory service manual for a van, but a truck wiring harness should be near identical.

You are missing a wire that goes from the choke pulloff (thermostat?) to the round resistor bolted to the head. The other other wire you don't know where it goes also goes to the round resistor.

At some point in time, there was a plug in your original wiring harness that went to the idle stop solenoid, unless someone swapped on a different carburetor and left the idle stop solenoid. It is very worth it to have a functional idle stop solenoid, if possible. See if you can't find the plug that goes to the ISS. I can post the factory correct method to set your idle speed if you get your ISS working.

Let me know if this all makes sense, or doesn't.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

When I reinstalled the cobbled together junkyard air injection system in my brother's 83 van, I was running a cylinder head with no upstream port and a catalytic converter with a direct injection port. I set the air pump up with no solenoid or control so that it was injecting air constantly into the catalytic. I don't know if that lead to the converter's early meltdown, but it worked long enough for the van to pass emissions the last time, and it ran pretty clean.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed: there is still nothing such as a choke pull-off with a wire going to it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK, fine, you are right. I don't know the proper name of the part that consists of a bi-metallic spring attached to a rod that keeps the incoming air from pushing the choke all the way open until the motor has warmed up. I do know that the bi-metallic spring is heated by both exhaust heat transferred through the manifold and a (+) electrical current which travels to the spring via a wire that goes to that round resistor.

I have never found a accurate technical name for this bi-metallic spring assembly. I have sen it referred to as the choke, the choke assist, the choke pull off, and other names in other sources. If you are aware of the technically accurate name of this part, please let me know. I would rather know the right name and use than keep using the wrong name.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

It's called the choke thermostat.
It's always been called the choke thermostat, by the factory and in the aftermarket alike.
For short, yeah, though "the choke" can also refer to the choke valve/plate/blade in the carburetor airhorn itself.
Not correct. Sounds like a garburated* version of "electric-assist choke thermostat", which is the full formal name for a choke thermostat heated by both exhaust heat and an electric heater.
This has never been correct and I have never seen or heard anyone (else) use it to refer to the choke thermostat. Where'd you see it? The choke pull off is a vacuum operated device that pulls the choke valve open against the closing tension of the choke thermostat. Always has been.

*"Garburated" is a Canadianism. What's called a "garbage disposal" or a "Dispose-all" or an "Insinkerator" in the States is generally referred to in Canada as a "Garburator". It was probably an early brand name, like "Dispose-all" and "Insinkerator".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK, choke thermostat it is then. I guess I have read too many stories, articles, and posts written by people who also call it the wrong thing. Choke thermostat. Choke thermostat. I will remember choke thermostat.

FWIW- my 83 Dodge van factory service manual does not use the term choke thermostat in discussing the "automatic choke system." It only refers to "manifold heat transmitted to the choke housing relax[ing] the bi-metal spring until it eventually permits the choke to open fully." It also states, "an electric heater assists the engine heat to open the choke rapidly in summer temperatures."

Choke thermostat.

Still, it looks like the wire that goes to the round resistor has broken off dc's choke thermostat and a new one needs to be soldered on or the unit needs to be replaced.

Choke thermostat.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Stoke chermothat.
Thoke Stermochat.
Toke Scherthomat.
Thingy bolted onto the other thingy with the thingy connecting to the thingy.

»point« "grunt"

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.