Hi guys, I've been looking around for a while. Now it's time to post.

I bought a '77 Tradesman van last november. Stock 1bbl slant six w/ 3 on the three manual trans, no rust (which is a miracle considering Quebec's winters and salty roads).
Great deal! Had to get it towed to the garage and got the rear brakes and right idle arm replaced to make it roadworthy.
Mechanic also did a good tune-up, so the slant was still running strong even after 6 months of winter storage.






Last week, I took it on a 30 minutes city ride to get a nice set of US Indy slotted mags, but experienced some engine hesitation issues on the way back.
(engine stumbling and ammeter needle jumping toward D when taking off from stops; had to immediately press the clutch not to stall, and apply a little more gas than usual before releasing the clutch. Rough idle with shaking and a couple of backfires at some point). So I think it's time to do the valve adjustment thing and rebuild the carb, and I'm willing to do this by myself!

I first thought about buying a carb rebuild kit from the nearest Napa store. But reading some reviews here, I'll rather go with the Walker one (#15560D) and brass float (#100-48).
I still have to find a shop that sells them both, or an online store that will ship to Canada at a decent rate!

My van is parked on the street and I need to move her twice a week, so I'm also considering buying a spare/temporary carb, hence I could take my time learning about those things and then the rebuilt the stock one.
Any advice on the process since I'm a total newbie, and how much do you think I should pay for a used Holley 1945 at the junk yard?

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

That looks like a really neat Van!

Slant Six Dan should be along shortly, he knows where to get the 3 books you will need to repair and maintain your rig.

The popping back and hesitation issue...

I gather that the Van simply started running poorly on your return trip, which indicates to me that something changed suddenly. Based on your observation of the Ammeter, I would guess that you've got yourself a short in the charging circuit. This would be part of the problem. The last time I had that exact issue, I had a positive battery cable trying to melt on the exhaust. Check to make sure your battery cables are clean, and tight. Make sure that the ground strap is properly bolted to the block as well.

Sounds like you've got some work to do!

There is a search function at the top of each page on this forum, it's free to use, so please, do yourself a favor and use it... a lot!

Welcome to the board!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

You mean the Stokel's, Petersen's and a factory service manual
I got them all along with a '75 parts catalog. I'm reading the Stokel book and learning. Great books, indeed!

Thought it might be a faulty accelerator pump. But I surely should check it's nothing electrical first. Thanks for the advice.

_________________
"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

Had to move the van. Everything OK when cold.

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

Based on your symptoms, it would be hard to convince me that its the accelerator pump. Getting hot and popping back could be quite a number of things ranging from an ignition control box going out to the alignment of the planets... lol

Will it pop back even if the ammeter isn't moving awkwardly?

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks man! I will check the planets
I'm sorry I didn't answer sooner: I didn't use the van much until I moved a friend last week.
Problem did not reappear, though It was clearly harder to start when hot.

Didn't feel confident enough to do the valve lash adjustment at the side of the street yet.
I've noticed that the valve cover gasket might have been leaking oil for a while and the PCV valve hose is cracked at one end.
I think I need a 16" long 5/16 ID 9/16 OD rubber hose to replace that one.
Can I use the same type of hose SlantSixDan recommends for the fuel line mod as they are the same diameter?
If so, what length do I need for the fuel line if I decide to do it also?

Speaking of hoses, does anyone knows what sizes and lengths I should get to replace all the others vacuum hoses as well?


One more thing, I made a deal with friends so I can use their driveway to park the van while rebuilding the carb (just in case I make some horrible mistake).
But since I'd like to practice a little before doing the real thing I was wondering if anyone has a extra Holley 1945 they don't mind getting rid of.
I will pay a fair price and shipping for it (I'm located in Montreal, Canada H2X 3L6). Thanks.

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

A leaking PCV line will cause a lean condition which may or may not pass more vacuum at different temperatures due to the crack opening and closing from thermal factors. A lean mixture can cause a big flat spot and popping back through carburetor during light to moderate acceleration. At WOT that leak won’t be as noticeable due to the large throttle opening, and low vacuum condition.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC