Not really, Sandy. The same things annoy me as always have.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No one minds if you are a Noid.

We only care if you are pissy about it.

Get a thicker skin or bite your lip.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I will be happy to, Sandy.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

This is from the Allpar Slant 6 site. When I read this I took this to mean that the original dia. exhaust pipe to muffler was 2" OD, because they didn't say they changed the size of the tail pipe, just the exhaust to muffler pipe. I think I read this right, but I don't have any personal experience. Does anyone else know for sure?

74

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Where ever you go there you are!

Exhaust changes will not help you pass an emissions test.
DD

Hey Eric your pulling my leg right? Won't I get fined or end up in jail?

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Where ever you go there you are!

Well, I guess I thought it was part of the problem, so that's why I threw it out there.

74

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Where ever you go there you are!

Well FYI everyone, I just got word that I need to start moving to a new location. I've been waiting for this to happen at anytime for the last week or so, but now it's final. So that means I'm going to be in communicato maybe for a week while I get this move done. I'll talk to you when I get back.

Buy the way, I got a chance to start reading the carb info that Dan suggested. It was very comprehensive (looked like it was right out of the service manual from Dodge) and at least 10 times better info than in the Haynes manuals I got from the parts store. Thankyou very much Dan I sencerely apreciate the helpful information you've given to me!!! And there was quite a bit there and I'll be thanking you some more as well I'm sure!!! I can see now that the carb work that was done when I first got the car ($500.00, at that time I wasn't planning on working on the car myself, because I had other things taking up my time) was a total rip off and this was from one of the best shops around according to their reputation and the Better Business Bureau.

When I rebuilt the carb myself later I found it completely Jerry rigged, but I didn't really understand why it had been done the way it was done. But now I understand why. I rebuilt it according to the Haynes manual and it was put back together way better than the master machanic/back yard butcher boy, but now I know the carb is actually toast. They should have replaced the worn parts or put on a new carb and they should have informed me what was wrong. Any way no time to get into the details and there are probably other problems with the engine as well that I just haven't found out yet. So I'll catch you later!

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Where ever you go there you are!

Yes, Dan is very helpful.
Dan, don't you change a bit!

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Do you have copies of the E-tests you did pass - are they using the same criteria?

Did you replace any or all of those parts in the past to pass an E-test?

What has changed or been worked on since the last E-test?

These are simple troubleshooting questions which can help you eliminate repairing or replacing unnecessary parts.

A properly rebuilt carb will never be a waste of time or money whether you are due for an E-test or not.

The exhaust system should be in good repair as well - as far as sizing goes the car has run and passed E-tests with it so it should have been a non issue to start with - any reputable repair shop can repair it - I have always used a custom shop and they can replace your pipes with stainless steel thus minimizing future repairs.

Definitely adjust your valves because you should - as I recall this was part of routine maintenance in the service manual - it isn't as messy as you would think and it will make your engine a happy camper Although I have not used it yet someone gave me an old valve cover with the top cut off - I assume it was used to reduce the spatter while adjusting the valves.

In closing it is always easier to repair something if you can eliminate possible culprits - you know your car better than anyone else so make a list and reason through it before tackling the repairs - you will save time and money - and keep in mind that usually when you finally do find the cause of your troubles it will be something simple.

Good luck

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.

Hmmm, A well tuned engine can save gas and still not pass emissions. For example increasing the base timing will increase power and improve fuel economy and cause the engine to fail emissions. But then you know this already. So why quibble.

Lets see, I have three point seat belts in the Dart so I won't impale myself. I used to dump the old engine oil under the neighbors holly bush across the alley for my parents garage. Holly bush is still going strong and I now dump the old oil at O'Reily's. And at one time 60% of the adult population smoked, so maybe Camels were what most doctors smoked.
I don't know, I don't and didn't smoke.

But expecting 37 year old cars to pass emissions is ridicules. Especially when important parts of the system are no longer available. For example can you buy a new OSAC value.

I read that greenhouse gas emissions caused by butterfly flatulence recently passed that of all out-of-tune slant sixes in the world. The EPA has begun study of butterfly diets in an effort to address the crisis. Regulations to follow.

Well, I finally got everything sqaured away and then some (extra projects I wasn't anticipating came up, didn't think it would end!).

So, I continued reading the info SlantsixDan presented in the hopes that some combination of things might still allow me to still pass emissions. The first thing I did was check the quality of the spark I was getting using a spark checker from Lyle which you can gap (.035) and I got a nice blue spark so no problems there. Then I removed the washers per Dan's post and reinstalled (test drived and it was a tad better Thank's again Dan!!!) . My guess is that there should be no problems then with the ignition components that I replaced and adjusted.

Then I went through and using a timing light checked the timing chain. The timing mark only moves 1 degree at the most and is mostly steady. So as I understand it that means the chain should be tight. So, I don't think I need to check using the distributor rotor/fan blade test, right?

Next, I remembered that I did change the timing since the last time it passed emissions, because I tried using the highest vacuum reading technique and that resulted in moving the timing from 5 degrees btdc to 10 degrees btdc (Thanks Mark Mallett and kesteb for jogging my memory on that one ). So I think I'm going to move it back, then adjust valve lash, and readjust the idle mixture using the engine rpm technique. I think that because the throttle plate assembly is loose and creating a vacuum leak, that trying to use the vacuum technique to set the idle mixture may be resulting in to rich a mixture to compensate for the vacuum leak. Because the idle mixture screw seems to be much farther out than the 1 and 1/2 turns which is the starting point for the adjusting. Please correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not sure on this one.

74

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Where ever you go there you are!

Yes they are using the same as last year.
Either that or a new carb is ultimately what I'd like to do, but have to wait to get enough money together first .
That old modified valve cover sounds like a really interesting idea!
The fact that it's usually something simple is exactly the way I was looking at it from the beginning, thinking that I had somehow missed a simple thing.

Thanks,
74

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Where ever you go there you are!

This reminds me of Saturday Night Live...

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Where ever you go there you are!