Well, I am disgusted that this supposedly "hi-tech" injector, which, BTW, seems to work amazingly well in every other respect.
My gripe: can't it be supplied with plumbing that is virtually "leak-free" for an asking price of $336.00?

I have no problem with the price; just the fact that the simplest part of this system (the plumbing from the tank-to the pump-to the carb hat) apparently can't be engineered not to leak.

I have two of these and they were bought about 4 years apart, and suffer identical problems: the "push-in tubing connectors fail to seal effectively.

No excuse for that... and any "easy fix" would involve metal fittings, and I can't imagine how to connect them to all this plastic...

Rant mode: OFF

Tyler sick setup and awesome car. Did you weld the exhaust flange your self or have it done. The only meth-kits I have used is the devils own they have a pretty good setup for the hoses and there nozzles. I did how ever plumb a 5.9L cummings with 1/4 copper lines and and fittings on a buddies truck. Had six nozzels and 50 pounds of boost.

Thanks,
I cut and mocked everything up, then had a experienced welder friend lay the welds down. It turned out very nice.

He also tigged up my intercooler piping after I made everything fit together properly.

That cummins sounds like fun! My DD is an 01 5.9 24v, all stock except a intake, tune and straight 3" exhaust. Only pushing about 19 psi lol.

Im pretty sure the turbo on my slant is bigger than the one on my cummins haha

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Tyler,

You're gonna have way too much fun with this car!!!!

Bill

Bill, it's a lot of fun! It feels really strong when it spools up. When are you going to be Getting into boost? I'm curious to see how it performs compared to the other turbo slants like yours.

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Tyler,
We have a problem.

A big problem.

Let me tell you what we're up against:

Here is a thumbnail sketch of our engine:

3.40 + .065" overbore = 234 cubic inches
early drool-tube, 225 ported head with 1.75" X 1.5" oversize valves
un-milled head with less than .001" variance from perfectly flat, end-to-end
Block un-milled; wasn't needed
Stock, un-modified combustion chambers, giving a measured 9:1 true compresssion ratio using a .020"-thick, shim steel head gasket
ARP 220,000 psi head studs
Wiseco forged pistons, .167" down in the hole
K.1 198 (7-inch long) rods
165 pounds measured compression on a gauge with less than 2 pounds variance from end to end
Bullet cam with 210/210 duration @ .050"-lift, .484"-total lift, with 115 degrees of lobe separation, installed "straight up"
small-block (340) valve springs plus a weak inner spring, giving 135 pounds on the seat and just over 300 pounds, fully open
Stock oil pump
Dropped sump (2 1/2") giving more oil capacity and getting the top of the oil level down away from the counterweights; baffled and with a modified pickup
Aussiespeed Hurricane, long runner intake manifold mounting a 4150, Holley 750cfm 4bbl, with blow-thru modifications by Tom Wolfe, including a boost referenced power valve
Adequate-sized waste gate from Turbonetics set to 10 pounds of boost.
550 HP capable intercooler (Spearco)
Turbonetics T-4 turbocharger that was new-in-the-box when we got it
Ignition is a lean burn distibutor with a locked plate (no centrifugal advance mechanism, and no vacuum advance; just a locked plate) set at 18 degrees advance on the crank. That is 1.1 inches (18 degrees) on our stock dampener.
MSD 6-AL II digital module and a Blaster II coil.
Yet to be installed, is an RJC boost controller
Stock rocker arms and pushrods
Electric fan and electric water pump.
Blowoff valve not installed yet, but purchased.
Walbro gsl 60 psi pump, two filters (one before and one after the pump) and an Aeromotive boost-referenced regulator set at 6 psi.
3,500 rpm Hughes converter
904 with a 2.74 first gear, and full manual, reverse pattern valve body; Turbo Action Cheetah shifter
8.75 reaar end with a new 3.55 Sure Grip center section and Yukon axles. Cal Tracs... 7290 U joints 50/50 shocks in the rear and 90/10's in the front.
Disk brakes on tubular control arms and subframe conectors.
6-point roll bar
Total weight, 2,680, not including driver.

This engine runs flawlessly, starts on the first turn of the key, spins the tires in a most healhy way on both the 1-2 and 2-3 upshift.
It will run 5,500 rpm in 3rd gear and doesn't take very long at all to get there; never misfires. 100% ignition, all the time.

So, what is the problem?

Check this out:

On a boost gauge that has been "bench-tested" for accuracy with a pressure-regulated source of compressed air at 10 psi, under no conditions will this motor (turbo) make enough boost to move the gauge needle off "zero."The fitting for the boost gauge line is on the carbureter hat.

No amount of "tuning" has resulted in this system making any boost at all. NADA!

It acts like the waste gate is 100-percent "open" all the time.

I am on my way to the garage right now to install a cover over the waste gate port on the header that will seal it off, completely, negating the posssibility that the waste gate valve is somehow, open.

This thing runs pretty good with NO boost; from a seat-of-the-pants feel, I'd say it will probably run in the high 14's as it sits, normally-aspirated.

But, we didn't build it to run normally-aspirated.

We've got to get this fixed... DUH!!!

I'll keep you up-to-date on what we are doing...

Bill, scratching my head in Conway, Arkansas

How are you running it without a blow off valve?

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Can you move the boost reference spot to somewhere else?

It's possible that your reference spot is located at a venturi so that the air rushing by is pulling a vacuum..........

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Boost gauge should to the manifold. The BRPV should be to the carb hat.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

+1

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Thanks for everybody's interest and comments! I appreciate every one.

We found the problem.

Okay; here is what was going on:

The cold air plumbing that comes from the turbo discharge makes a circuitous path on its way to the intercooler, ducking down inside the fender, through a hole in the flat, horizontal, inner fender panel, and takes a little jog around the intake air filter that is located in the area just to the left of where the battery used to reside.

A plumbing joint had come loose and 100% of the boost was escaping from the disconnected pipes.

That's all there was to this "mystery."

We couldn't see this problem; it was hidden inside the fender, just above the left front wheel.

We re-connected the plumbing and, VOILA!!! boost aplenty!

I apologize for wasting everbody's time on this; it's embarassing, to say the least. That is the first place we should have looked...

That always happens to me wwhen I try to make something more complicated than it really is..

I will re-install the fittings that I have located in the wrong place. Thanks for the corrections.

I have a blow-off valve that will be installed on the carb hat; just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Again, thanks to all for the good information, interest, and excellent advice! You guys are the greatest!!!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

Bill, glad you found the problem, I'm just curious as to how you are making boost with with no bov to release it when the throttle shuts?

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Tyler, 19
72 Dart Swinger /6T

Tyler,

I will likely get that BOV installed today. I know it'as not a good idea to drive it around with no BOV, but it hasn't been a problem so far because we haven't had any BOOST so far... it was all going out that huge leak where the two pipes had become un-attached. No boost, no problem.

We'll git-r-dun, sooner, rather than later.

Thanks for the reminder!!!


Bill

Maybe the lack of a BOV caused the leak.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

That's a good possibility. I never thought of that!

Thanks!!!

Bill
PS Your Valiant is JUST like ours!!!