I dont know the differences in side lengths on the 8.8, but an old school trick on the ford 9" was to cut the long side the same as the short. (think it was 2") then just use a new short axle.... That way no custom axles needed, just off the self parts..... (think cheaper)

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

That's what you do to get the 8.8 into an A-body. You end up cutting 2 and 3/8s off the long side. No custom parts needed. It ends up being about 5/8s" shorter than a stock axle if my memory is correct.

Theres a couple of builds over on FABO showing how to do it and what rear end to use.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I posted ahowto with pics on this site

Ford axles in A bawdys

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

If I can find someone that is able to pull the axle tube out, I'm purchasing 2 of these and do 0 cuts.

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1985 Dodge D-100

Stoutsix that sounds like the hard and expensive way to do things. Why do you not want the tube to be cut. If done right the welded section on the tube will be stronger than the none welded section. There is no reason to worry about the explorer axel tubes being weak. If you don't trust the shop to do the cut and weld then how could you trust them to remove the factory plug weld pull the tube press in the new tube and reweld the plug weld? I am sure they will charge you more to do that. If that is the route you chose make sure you have them weld the tubes to the center pumpkin. The plug welds on the 8.8 have been known to fail under extream uses.

When I did my 8.8 into my cherokee I was worried about the tubes flexing so I built a truss from one spring pad over the top of the pumpkin and back down to the other spring pad. But that was in a rock crawler with locked axle with plans togo to 37" tires. There is no way I would worry about that in a A-body and slant.

Alright then, back to 1. I have been searching and it doesn't sound like many know how to remove the tubes anyway. I would however, believe I'd purchase 2 new axles. I've seen Alloy's online for ~$85, figure my buddy who owns a mechanic shop can get them a lot cheaper.

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1985 Dodge D-100

The Explorer 8.8 has 31 spline axles stock. I have a hard time imagining how a normally aspirated 225 backed by an automatic would even come close to over-stressing the stock axle shafts. I know that by the NHRA rule book you are supposed to have upgraded axle shafts with a spool, but with the weight and power we're considering I think upgraded shafts are overkill.

Can anyone confirm the width of the Explorer axle to the wheel mounting surfaces as 59.5"? If so I could use the Explorer rear end under my '72 Dart without shortening. I would be using 17" Mustang wheels. It would be cheaper to swap axles than to build a new 3rd member for the 8" Ford that's under there now.

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Joshua

I can only confirm by reading 20 or more people on forums that it's 59.5". You can easily google this one because the Jeep, 60's mustang, and FABO guys are using them.

The short axle going in the fabbed side will be turning a different way and people have seemed concerned about twisting it the opposite way, and at that low price, I see no reason to chance breaking an axle. I've seen it tear some $#!+ up, granted I understand 6's aren't powerful.

I've also read that some prefer to buy a new short axle rather than going to the scrap yard and having to pull a single axle.

Oh, by the way, the center section is off set the 2-3 inches everyone cuts off the long side. Not sure if that will affect you or not.

The ford explorer 8.8 measures 59.625 wide wheel mount to wheel mount. I shortened mine to run the 2 short side alloy shafts and with my Cobra R 17" wheels I moved the leafs in .50" and the tires still rub the leafs. I need minimum about .750" of a spacer on each side for the wheels to clear. I tried test fitting the axle and wheels before shortening and didn't like the drive shaft angle, the shaft would be hitting the tunnel or floor. I think the wheels wanted to hit the finder lips aswell( on a early a-body). When shortened you remove about 2 3/8s" to give you some room. Some thing else for any one thinking about the swap 15" wheels minimum are needed to clear the disc. Set up I have seen 14" on the drum 8.8 but really tight.