Ok so I'm going to jump right into it. I rebuilt my master replaced my slave. Bench bled the master and then tried 1 the mity vac method 2.old faithful 2 person bleed method 3. Gravity bleed method and finaly 4 a combo of 1 and 2...

So now that I've told you what I've done I have to tell you what my problem is, it has no pressure when the clutch is pressed and the pedal does not return. And the slave doesn't move the fork.

Please some one help I'm at wits end here. I tried it for six straight hours and I don't know

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1964 d100 slant 6 225

I am surprised no one has replied yet. My first question would be why did you rebuild the Master and Replace the slave? Why didn't you replace both? You have probably already seen this article, but it explains it very well.
http://www.wikihow.com/Bleed-a-Slave-Cylinder

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1964 Dart GT

Did it bleed properly? Or do you THINK it bled properly?

clamp the part of line thats rubber (not so much as to damage line) and operate the clutch pedal. If it goes to the floor and stays its not moving fluid, and the master cyl is suspect (even rebuilt). If thats the case pull it back apart and make sure the seals are facing the correct way or if just o-rings inspect them very closely. If all appears ok bench bleed again using a piece of hose from port to reservoir until ALL bubbles are gone. even changing the plane from level going both ways. (front higher than rear, rear higher than front)

I have never had good luck rebuilding clutch masters for some reason, brake m/c's no prob but the clutch ones not so much. They usually arent much more expensive than the kits.

If it starts down and gets hard its moving fluid, in this case crack the line that feeds the slave and walk away for 20-30 minutes and see if you have a spot or have caught fluid in a container. Dont let it run out of fluid and believe me it doesnt take long as the reservoirs doesnt hold much. Then try to bleed the slave, after you know fluid is down to the end of hose.

Sorry I didnt respond when I first saw the thread yesterday, but thought someone would post to answer you....

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

I can't remember which but I did my brake and clutch master at the same time. I'm pretty sure the clutch master was not available anymore - only a rebuild kit.

I've had the same problem bleeding the stupid thing about 3 times. I finally bought a factory manual and learned a very important secret...

It says nothing about someone pumping the pedal but I guess it was implied. I had a vaccum bleeder and was working alone so I used it. Loosen the slave bleeder and connect the vaccum bleeder. Start pumping.

Now for the secret... Open the bleeder screw for 4 seconds, then close it. Repeat until you stop getting air bubbles. According to the manual this causes a "swirl" in the slave that moves the air to the bleeder screw.

Up until now it was a 2 person, all day job. I just did mine twice (didn't rebuild the slave the first time) and it took 30 minutes or less each time.

Danny