I am new to this forum and looking for some help.

I bought a swamp buggy,popular here in south Florida, that has a 1979 225 super six in it with a Carter BBD carb. The exhaust manifold is cracked, so I found one locally that I am going to replace it with. Since this in not in a car, the vacuum lines and other "non essential" ports were plugged when I bought it. I am looking for some advice on the best way to put this back together to maximize low end torque and power. I am not concerned with MPG or speed. Here are the major questions I have for now.

A: There is currently a PCV Valve on the valve cover connected to the carb. Should I keep this or just cap the port and valve cover?

B: The bowl vent was capped? I would think that I should leave this unplugged and open to the air?

C: Where can I get a gasket and plate to cover the EGR valve location on the manifold? The EGR valve that was on it was also just plugged. I figured a plate would be easier.

D: The timing tab on the front of the block is busted off. Any suggestions to find TDC and set timing?

E: The breather tube from the valve cover that would normally go to the air cleaner is cut off and exhausting into the air. Should I cap this or leave it on. I don't plan on using a typical air cleaner box, just simply a 4" "open" air filter.

Also, how do I post a pic to this forum? I have a question about something mounted to the motor that I need clarification on.
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Let's see if this works.

What is the piece in this photo?

http://s1308.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... r.jpg.html

Right now it is cut off and goes nowhere.

You can also add the photo direct.

_________________
1964 Dart GT

Thanks..

Keep the PCV system operational, it will help keep the engine clean, inside
Do not cap it. I would connect one end of a fuel filter to the carb, and leave the other end of the filter open to air. That way,the vent is open, but you will not get foreign objects into the carb. Gasket can be obtained at a parts store. A block off plate was available at the dealer, might not be now. There is a vender on E-bay that has them, or just use a piece of metal and make your own. use the gasket as a pattern Make a new tab from some thin metal, and put it on the front of the engine, where it is convient. Then using a piston stop, to get TDC, make coresponding marks on the new tab, and damper. You need some kind of filter on that , or you will be getting dirty air into the engine, do not cap it off.



As for increasing power/torque. If you have the engine out, and the manifolds off, my recommendation would be to remove the head and have it milled at least .050 to .100 depending on measurments, and what your fuel requierments are. That is the best bang for the buck for a power increase.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

That is part of the air injection system for emissions. Several ways to remove it. Cut the tube close to the head and crimp the end with a pair of vise grips, then braze/weld it closed. or remove the mounting bolt, remove the tube completely and install a small "freeze" plug. or make a small plate to bolt on to cover the hole.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

OK, great. Thanks for the information and advice. A few more questions.

1) What are the vacuum line hook ups required? I assume I can completely plug the vacuum tree and sensor on the intake manifold? I should have the advance to the carb, the PCV valve, and the choke connections left. Can I cap all other ports? (other than the bowl vent as previously discussed)

2) What is the correct depth to set the piston stop?

3)Once I mark TDC on the new metal attachment and damper, are the steps between each degree up and down 1/16" from 0?

Thanks..

Yes, you can plug all ports on the manifold itself. Vacuum advance to the distributer should be the "ported" nipple on the carb. Choke pulloff should be the "full time" nipple on the carb. PCV connects to the large nipple at the base of the carb. DO NOT connect to a port on #6 intake runner. No particular depth. You just want to make sure the piston will stop as you turn the engine, by hand, forward and back. I would try to get somewae around 1 inch of movement of the damper, between the forward and backward movement. That makes it easier to split the difference. Not really sure, I would have to go out to the shop and measure. I usually just mark TDC, and use a dial back timing light.

JFYI to find TDC

Checking the timing mark is VERY easy. The only special tool you need is a TDC stop tool, such as the one sold HERE
Other people use a spark plug as the basis for a TDC tool. Get an old spark plug that fits in the hole and break out all the ceramic portion of the plug. Drill the center portion out so you have just a ring with threads on the outside. Now tap the inside of the ring to fit a bolt and you have made your own piston stop tool.

To check your timing mark, remove the #1 spark plug and thread the tool into the hole. By hand, rotate the motor counterclockwise until the motor won't turn anymore (the piston has come into contact with the bottom of the TDC tool). Using whiteout, mark the vibration dampener next to the 0 degree or TDC line on the timing tab. Now rotate the motor clockwise until the motor stops turning. Mark the vibration dampener again at the TDC mark on the timing tab.

Ideally, the two marks on the vibration dampener should be equidistant from the timing mark cast into the dampener. If the two marks are not equidistant, you need to measure the distance between the two, divide it by two, and make a new mark equally distanced from each whiteout mark which will be your new timing mark.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225