So with the head at the machine shop for the final work I've been
rebuilding carbs and getting the intake set up. I bought four cores
(plus the one I already had) in order to get enough parts to build two
identical, perfect carbs. I rebushed the throttle bores (made my own
backwards reamer), and sanded the warped tops on a sheet of glass. I
had to redrill one main air bleed because I damaged one removing it. I should never have tried removing it in the first place.

Two of the carbs were 'parts store' remans, complete with missing tags, but I like the added spacers to keep the top from warping, so I used them as the basis for my carbs. I used throttle body castings from two different carburetors so I could keep them both with the A-body style linkage. That also allowed me to have the same idle mixture slot width/length, idle screw, vac. advance slot, etc. Both bodies had the same idle air bleed and 'economizer' drillings, and the same main air bleeds although I had to replace one anyway. I used the best two metering rods (.028) and matching main jets, idle jets and pump jets. I blocked the idle bypass passages like the Offy instructions recommend. If it's a problem I can always re-drill them since I used JB weld.

I have to find one more stock air cleaner and then I
can paint and install them. I also have to make a fuel line, I have
all the parts I just hate bending lines because it's so hard to make
them perfect without kinks.

BTW I found a new carb cleaning solution - Pine-sol! Mix it 2:1 with
water and dump all the parts in for a few days. Makes the garage smell
like a school janitor but works wonders on old carb gunk and is not
nearly as nasty as Berryman's. You can even put your hands in it
without harm.

<img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8211/8263952567_d277ebe206.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="intake">[/img]

Very nice!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Thanks!

Of course all this work may turn out to be a waste of time, since there are no different jets, rods or springs available for the Carter BBS anymore.

Worst case I may try soldering up some jets and re-drilling them. But still can't do anything about metering rods or step-up springs.

Pull them and see if they are close to the 1974+ BBD rods and jets, if so you can use the Edlebrock AFB rods and jets...(and possibly some other rods and jets...fromthe same line).

-D.Idiot

They are nothing like Edelbrock rods or jets, unfortunately I have a box of those for working on the 318 in my truck. At first glance the step up springs might work though.

Looks like a bunch of "monkey motion" in that linkage, but properly working Rube Goldberg devices have always fascinated me. I like it!

I wonder if it would work with a WEBER one barrel? The one I found has a manual choke (34 ICH) so there would be a little addition to the Goldberg appearance.

ATB

BC

_________________
'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

The oldies were air metered carbs. Not solid fuel. (whatever that means!) The rods on the oldies are like thin needles. The newer stuff is fat. The metering rod tree/piston is way different too.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick