I am purchasing a 1960 Plymouth Belvedere from a friend with the original slant 6 in it. The engine is fresh and was just rebuilt to stock specs. I would like to give the car some performance and was wanting some advice. I have never owned a slant 6 car before, I am used to 1960 Buicks with 401 engines.

I have read a good bit on the turbo conversions and would like to go that route. I would like to keep my budget under 1000.00 and get the most bang for my buck while keeping the car reliable and streetable. I would also like to keep the 3 speed automatic and rear diff stock and not destroy them by putting to much power into the 6.

I have a big heavy car with a little engine what would you guys recommend to get some power. Is the 1960 model engine worth fooling with? Right now she will push you in the seat about as hard as a loaded school bus climbing a steep grade. I would like her to pull like my 60 Buicks do and run in the low 15's high 14's. Is this feasable? I could use some advice as I am a dummy when it comes to this 6 cylinder.

Welcome aboard 60Buick, my first and only unsuccessful old car resurrection project was a 1940 Buick Special coupe… RIP That is just another sad story involving youth, a lack of dough, and no plan. LOL

Please post some photos of your car following method outlined on this [url=http://slantsix.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=15]page[/url] for us to enjoy.

First step with your project would be to purchase a copy of your car’s Factory Service Manual. This document will solve many mysteries as you become Moparized… while learning Chrysler’s ways, and methods. It covers everything from electrical, mechanical, suspension, and body. Don’t bother with Chilton and other generic manuals unless you need something to stand on, or hold a door open.

1960 was the first year for the [url=http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html]Slant Six[/url], and it came in two forms, a low deck 170 ci, and high deck long stroke 225 cu inch both with same bore and were aluminum engines for 1960. Being initially designed as aluminum block with large crank bearings, and around 1963 changed to a cast iron block it easily accepts boost.

We need to know which engine you have, and if it has been replaced with a later cast iron rendition. A quick way to differentiate between 170 & 225 is by measuring the short bypass hose from water pump to head; if it is about 1 ½â€￾ long you have a 170, and if it is about 3â€￾ long you have a 225 ci rendition. Both engines are equal in stoutness and reliability, but the larger displacement allows one to extract more needed torque with forced induction modifications that a Belvedere would need. Look [url=http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31]here[/url] for casting numbers & dates to identify what you have for engine, head, transmission, rear end etc.

Check out “Articlesâ€￾ button on home page of this site, and any “Stickiesâ€￾ at top of engine and perhaps boost for more information on engine builds, as well as using “Searchâ€￾ feature to locate other threads discussing boost, and engine builds. Offsite interesting reading of all things Mopar, nerdly and otherwise at [url=http://www.allpar.com/] Allpar[/url] may be of interest as well.

Several members here successfully run boosted slants. Also there is a fellow that has a site chronicling his full sized slant six powered[url=http://www.projectplato.com/cars/bigredhome.html]1960 Dodge Dart[/url] sister to your Belvedere… He has a bit (LOL) more than 1000 bucks into the engine build, but it will give you an idea what can be accomplished to haul one of these big old queens around with a small engine.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

That's not correct.
Also not correct.
Only one slant-6 was available in the '60 Plymouth: a cast-iron 225.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

it is a 225.