Rick, If you can afford It, I might just Contact Mike Jeffery and have him do the head for you... All you need to do is ship it to him and call him to discuss the technical aspects of your engine... It might be a bit more than the $200 you have in the budget, but it's money well spent...

He Might Disagree with the Springs etc that you have bought and suggest a more appropriate part...
The valve install, Port sizing and correlating the cam and flow you need is where he is pretty much unrivaled at getting all of those aspects correct.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I second what Greg said.

Rick, listen to these guys. Trying to build a good, durable engine with e-bag crap is counter-productive.

Spend the money now and avoid chasing your tail around next season.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Whoa Nellie! I understand what you guys are saying . But I don't have the $$$ to drop on a head from Mike. No doubt somewhere down the line I would like to have one, but I would have more in the head than I will have in my whole engine right now.

My only point in sharing was that a large bore long rod can be done for a lot less than the all out race engines that some of you are building. The only questionable part that I really see is the Chevy pistons. And Lou is running this exact set-up right now in project V, so I know it works.

A real race motor will cost substantially more than I am willing to spend right now. A Good head - $1200 +($1800 in 2016) , K1/Wiesco $900, then everything else. Your probably looking at $4-5000. I'm not against that, but I will be happy to go somewhat slower with the parts I got. Then sometime down the road I can spring for some of the great parts we are talking about.

The $200 in the head was just for the guide work and valve job. No porting , no planing...etc.

You guys forget, I waited 30 years to get this car going again. I'm a very patient man. Some day I'll run into a Jeffrey head for $500 and it will be mine!!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick, I was not Bashing any other part of your build..


Pistons, Rods etc... I think are fine..



I just suggest for that the most bang for your buck you might think about spending an extra few dollars on the Most important part of your build... The head.


Heck Have Ryan offset the cost by upping the price of the motor swap deal.


All the Best.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg, I agree . I laid my hands on your Jeffrey head when you had it at the banquet a couple years ago. It was sweet, and some day I'll have one. It just may be next year!!

I could just charge Ryan triple and go right to a turbo!!

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick, my biggest thing is trying to cut corners by using E-bag cheap parts. What good is saving a few bucks now on valves/springs if you drop a valve next season and trash your motor?

Besides, it's probably too late this year to get a Jeffrey head anyway.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

i don`t know about ebay parts but engblder valves are the best i have used and badgar pistons can take a beating if you don`t run them super lean too often

With a gift from the boys to Summit I will be purchasing a Wide band O2 set-up for my car. I have a couple questions on mounting the sensor.

I am running headers and was wondering where is the best place to mount it. Can it be in an individual runner? Or does it need to be in one of the collectors? I am running the "old" Clifford 3 into 1 long tubes @ 40" long. I have a very convenient spot to install the bung about 18" down from the head but this may be to close to the exhaust valve?

Also, if this has to go in the collector does it matter how much pipe is downstream of it? While racing with no mufflers I have only about 8" of downstream pipe.

Also help on choosing? They have the AEM 30-4100 for $175, the Innovate LC-1 for $209, and a Innovate MTX series for $199. Are any of these better than the others?

Thanks for you help,

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick,

I would put in a collector to get info on at least 3 cyls. 18" is not too close, but one cyl could be off from others. I would get the AEM since I have 3 of them working perfectly and others have had trouble with the Innovates.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou. I'll get it ordered and when I swap motors next month I'll install the bung in the headers.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I ordered my Air /fuel kit as well as my cam bearings and 2 overhauls gasket sets. I think I have all the rest of the parts.

Today I drilled the extra holes in the lifter galley and tapped all of them. I made the brass stand pipes and have them ready to install. I tapped the extra pad on the main oil galley for my oil pressure gauge. I cut all the lugs off the top edge of the block that interfere with your headers / Gaskets. I did some die grinder work inside the oil pump mounting boss to smooth up the flow through there. I want to hone the lifter bores a bit and put a small chamfer on the top edge of the lifter bore like Doc mentions and then I think it is off to the machine shop.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

don`t forget to weld a bung in each collector so you can swap from each header to get a reading on all cylinders.

Good idea!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I just weighed my 198 rods and here is what I got.

746 G
758 G
762 G
764 G
768 G
770 G

Can someone give me a few pointer in getting these a bit closer to each other? Where do I start grinding? Big end? small end? parting line on the beam? And what is an acceptable deviation?

Thanks,
Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6