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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2012 2:46 pm
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Ok. So I've searched and searched, and can't seem to find out what transmission I have in the truck, or what my issue could be...

It's a 78 D100 with 3 on the tree. I went under the truck and wrote the number down off the metal tag which says: 390 3822994

I have an intermittent problem with reverse. Sometimes when I go for reverse, it grinds. I can't seem to figure out what's going on, and since I can't figure out the transmission code, I really can't search any further... Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

-sechanman

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 6:21 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
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Location: Indianapolis
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That could be an internal transmission issue, but I would be more inclined to look at the shift linkage adjustment / linkage bushings first.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 9:22 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Also make sure the clutch is fully releasing...
Reverse is a "non-synchronized" gear so everything needs to stop rotating to engage it with-out "clash".
One "trick"... select any of the other synchronized gears first, before shifting into reverse... that helps stop the gear rotation, making for smoother transition into a non-synchro gear.
DD


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 Post subject: Thank you!
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 11:13 am 
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I replaced the shift bushings and it was still happening...
Thanks Dr. Dodge for the "trick" works like a charm. I go to 1st, then up to reverse, and it definitely helps! Much appreciated!!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:56 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:32 am
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Location: The Right Coast
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The transmission in your truck is a Mopar A-230 three speed fully synchronized in all forward gears...it's a very rugged box...I have one behind an early hemi in my 1952 Ford F1 pickup....your clutch is not releasing completely...check for worn linkage bushings on the cross shaft...check for the correct amount of pedal free play....make sure all return springs are in place (under the dash)....inspect the engine mounts for wear, and the trans mount too...If everything checks out and is still serviceable, then get ready to change the entire clutch assembly...disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing, and possibly the release bearing fork...It might be worn on the yoke fingers or bent, but you can't tell unless you take it out and examine it....Now when you put everything together, make sure not to get any grease whatsoever on the flywheel, disc, or plate.....lube with grease all linkage pivot points, adjust to factory specifications, and you will be good to go. 8)

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 Post subject: Cool...
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:05 am 
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Well, I'm pulling the motor to re-do a few things and do a general clean up on it... At that time I'll replace the clutch, p-plate, t/o bearing, and possibly fork.

Not doubting your knowledge in any way, but how do you know what transmission I have? From the numbers I gave or just what came in that year make/model? Just curious... I was looking at clutch kits and want to be 1000000000% sure what I've got before I purchase the parts. :D

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 Post subject: Is it...?
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 5:59 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Not doubting your knowledge in any way, but how do you know what transmission I have?
If you've been under there do you know if the tranny has a top plate for access, or a side plate where the shift levers are at...Just curious since the A-390 was still available into the 70's as a 3 speed tranny.

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2012 2:46 pm
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Top plate.

I had it out this week- new clutch, pressure plate, t/o bearing, and bushing... Now it won't shift right. Clutch is adjusted way in to even get it to shift with engine running, and clutch slips. Dammit.

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