Hello guys. First let me say I feel honored to be part of the Slant Six Forum.

I hope to someday swap an O/D A833 into my 63 Dart. I know I would need the pedal assemblies and a new driveshaft, but what else would I run into attempting this swap? Also, what clutch would y'all recommend for a bone-stock street car? Thanks in advance.

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Black 1963 Dodge Dart 4-Door, 225/A904 pushbutton. Only 44K all-original miles.

Blue 1978 Ford F150, 302/C4. About 300K or so

727 slip yoke. I am not sure but there may be a set of pedals on Moparts.com for rhe early A for sale.

You will also need a 4 speed hump.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Clutch pedal set and hump is needed, and the driveline is correct. Beyond that you will need the clutch linkage as well and a flywheel that matches your motor (pre-67 flywheel if you have a pre-67 engine).
For a bone stock engine that you won't be drag racing the stock 9 1/4"
clutch should be just fine and can be had inexpensively if you shop around
(Zoom has served me well in that capacity in the past). The bellhousing from the donor vehicle will also be needed.

You will need the slip yoke for the tranny, but be warned that there is a change in yoke around the late 70's....my 1975 iron case units, all truck units, and my '76 OD's use the A-727 "large yoke"...I have an aluminum unit from 1978 that uses the smaller A-904 yoke. Hopefully you can get the yoke and drive shaft from the donor vehicle so it's matched.

Good Hunting.

-D.Idiot

[quote="DusterIdiot" The bellhousing from the donor vehicle will also be needed.

You will need the slip yoke for the tranny, but be warned that there is a change in yoke around the late 70's....my 1975 iron case units, all truck units, and my '76 OD's use the A-727 "large yoke"...I have an aluminum unit from 1978 that uses the smaller A-904 yoke. Hopefully you can get the yoke and drive shaft from the donor vehicle so it's matched.

-D.Idiot[/quote]

Makes me think my shorty 833OD is an F body unit. It had truck shifter linkage on it. I pulled it out of a '74 Duster roller I bought. It took the 727 SL.

BTW I have several 833 bells with shift forks for sale, one is a hydraulic unit.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

If your getting the trans out of a pickup ( that are readly available) the tailshaft, mainshaft is going to be longer than an A ,F body trans, also shifter postion is differernt. I bought a complete setup flywheel, bellhousing, trans from a pickup, measured it up and it looked like it would have fit if you installed rear trans mount backwards, shortened driveshaft, with 727 yoke and made up a custom shifter and linkage. I opted to switch out the main and tailshaft with A ,F body parts so I could use stock driveshaft, shifter. A guy in Syracuse N Y who worked at the New Process factory, has lots of parts and swapped my long tail and main shaft for the short ones, the long tailshafts are the same ones that are used in Cuda's and Challengers and are worth $$$, check Brewer Performance and see what the going price is. If any one wants his number I can try to find it, if you can find a A ,F body trans your good to go with maybe just switching yoke on driveshaft

Truck trans install is in our articles section with 4 speeds.

He's got a 1963 Ball and Trunnion drive shaft...can't just swap yokes...

-D.Idiot

I sure thank y'all. I don't really have the money to put into it at the moment, but I figured it would be better to learn all I can ahead of time.

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Black 1963 Dodge Dart 4-Door, 225/A904 pushbutton. Only 44K all-original miles.

Blue 1978 Ford F150, 302/C4. About 300K or so

The list is a little longer for the swap into an early a body automatic.....
The flywheel must fit your crankshaft......must be something like pre 67 to avoid machining.
The bellhousing must be an OD bellhousing to avoid machining.
You may need a floor hump.....I got an aftermarket 68 and used it in my 65.
You'll probably find that most available mechanical clutch linkage has a broken torque tube......best to go hydraulic and avoid the failures typical of fatique worn linkage..I learned this the hard way.
Check your rearend ratio.....hopefully it's somewhere between 2.94 & 3.21....As a guage my slant with 2.94 rear & trans in OD has 2000 rpm at 70 mph & pulls well up the hills at that speed but shows weakness at 55 mph on the same hill.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/