from what i've been reading, the cold air induction systems for newer cars is ajoke. K&N should really tell someone that if they plan on doing one of their cold air systems on a newer car, that it doesn't really do anything to the performance of the engine because of the mass air flow sensor. it doesn't matter how much cold air the engine sucks in, because the computer has it's set operation and won't go anywhere beyond that unless it's programmed to do so. (or so i believe)

but since our lovely motors don't have a mass airflow sensor, i was thinking about doing a cowl induction/cold air for the valiant, but before doing so, i wanted to hear some thoughts from you guys.

so:
colder air = more oxygen

but gas doesn't vaporize until about 130deg
so how does the cold air help?

just a question.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Cold air does help, but not as much as tuners and K&N would have you believe. The benefit provided by a cold air intake is that the carburetor is fed air that is at the ambient temperature rather than sucking in the heated air from the engine compartment. A cold air intake is a worthwhile modification, but don't spend more than about $30 on it. It is very easy to fabricate an entire system yourself.

K&N is overpriced and a rip off.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Check out Aggressive Ted's build thread. Nice "ambient" air intake in the grill! Heck, nice work all 'round!

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Thanks....

For less than $20.00 for mod, $12 for the flex tubing and $6. for the RV fitting it will pay for it's self pretty quick especially during the summer months. The extra mileage and power on hills is a nice benefit.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

On a newer vehicle a complete cold air system usually corrects a lot of what is wrong with a stock air box.

On my '00 Dakota R/T one was worth a tenth and a MPH at the track, and about 1 MPG on the street.

Never drove my Goat with the one on it often enough to get any usable data.

The one on my '06 didn't do anything, but that 4.7 is such a pig I don't think even nitrous would help it.

One thing to remember when putting a scoop or CAI on a carbed engine is you have to tune for it to get the most out of it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Some cars and trucks respond better than others to cold air intakes. Like zilla said on my 98 5.2L dakota I had the intake and t-body spacer from Aem plus I removed the plastic dust gaurd from behind the grill, picked up 4hp and 11ftlbs torque on the dyno from the rear wheels. The headers and single 3" exhaust made even a bigger diffrence.

I have done a couple on friends f150s and they make a big diffrence just because the stock intake system is so restrictive with to many sharp bends. But on some of the newer cars 2010+ you may not see much of an emprovement by the CAI because they have been tuned so much from the factory that it would take changing other items to get more out of it.

Even though I have a shiny chrome edelbrock air cleaner for my holley 390 on my slant I am kicking around the idea of using my old t-body hat and my own bent exhaust tubing to build a CAI for the valiant.
I do suggest a good quality dry flow filter though. Cleaning and oilling the wet filters get messy and in dusty climates the filter and cake mud like the K&N on my jeep did. If you build one for your self make sure your bends are smooth and avoid dryer or sewer hoses they can sag and don't do much for keeping the heat out.

I think on older carbureted vehicles that were built without any kind of cold air ducting provision, the term "cold air intake" is used to describe just a tube attached to the end of the air cleaner housing snorkel that ducts in air from outside the engine compartment. On modern FI vehicles the term "cold air intake" is usually used to refer to an air filter, air filter housing, and intake tubing package that replaces the stock cold air intake system.

The vast majority of slant six vehicles were built without any sort of provision for cold air intake and will see benefit from just running dryer hose from the end of the air cleaner snorkel to a spot behind the grill. It isn't necessary to buy a high flow air filter (K&N) or a new air filter housing. The key improvement is feeding the carburetor cooler air from outside the engine compartment rather than making it suck in the hot air generated by the engine.


EDIT: I really need to start using the spellcheck function.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed your right on!......that is the key since it can get pretty hot under the hood. The mod is easily worth 1 mpg or more depending on where you live. The idea of running an air dam to push more air up into the radiator and air intake also helps as well as the heat deflector under the carb to keep the intake warm and the carb cool, using electric fans instead of a stock fan set up, Dan's fuel line mod, all together help save 3 mpg. With the air dam my electric fans rarely kick for 9 months out of the year. Electric fans are great on start up since they are off, allowing the engine to warm up quicker and stay at temp.

All these items help improve fuel mileage by minimizing the effects of heat soak. You can skip buying the stock MOPAR flex hose and just use a few pieces of black pipe and two 45 degree fittings to make the connection to the air cleaner with a short piece of hose and a couple of clamps.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

How about this? Colder air equals denser air, and thus more oxygen. That's why intercoolers are used. Yes, modern cars have airflow sensors, and that allows for the computer to squirt more fuel into the airstream (or more recently directly into the cylinder). More oxygen, more fuel, larger explosions, more power. Efficiency is also affected by the difference in inlet and outlet temperature of the airflow. Greater the difference the greater the efficiency. So what is the temperature difference between the air under the hood versus outside? Not that great, especially when going down the road, but enough to see some small power and efficiency gains from a cold air intake, and even more so from an intercooler.

As a side note, intercoolers are usually used with turbochargers or supercharges because they tend to heat up the air as it is compressed.

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63 Dart GT Convertible

Those of us living in a tempered climate zone, will know how well an engine can run on a chilly afternoon, when it clears up after rain, the air is cool, and the humidity is slightly above average.

I have seen statements, telling that the power will change 1% for each 7.2 degree change in intake air temperature, because of the difference in air density. Those numbers are most likely lab figures. They may have some validity in racing, but will probably not be valid for a normal daily driver.

In my opinion, Mopars in general have too small air filter elements. The small filter area, and small passages in a stock SL6 air filter, may benefit from cold air intake, simply because you will get more cool, dense air through the same air cleaner box and filter passages, than you will get with hot air. A cold air intake increases the efficiency of the whole intake system in that respect.

On the other hand, the SL6 normally need the heated intake manifold to produce good fuel economy and driveability, so the question is whether the amount of fuel enriched air in the intake runners is increased with a cold air intake, just because the outside air is cooler.

My gut feeling is that the increased air flow through the otherwise stock intake system, that you will get from adding a cold air intake, just serve to overcome some restrictions. The resulting increase in power can be felt, and measured, especially when the engine need a good air supply during accelleration, or at high engine speeds in general. Except for stop-and-go traffic, a low restriction air cleaner with a tall 14" filter element may give the same effect as a cold air intake. But then again, you'll miss the advantage of having a snorkel with a heated air intake to prevent carburetor icing.

And we talk only carbureted engines here.

Cooler air to an EFI with injectors in each intake runner - depending on the air measuring system - may in some cases be very notable.

Here is a link to a thread on intake ducts

Olaf

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Aspenized

Until the CAI dissintigrated on the Hooptie, I was running no air filter at the track.

When it came apart, due to excessive neglect and punishment, I put the rusty chrome after market 14" POS paper element filter on, under the hood with all that heat.

The 1/4 mile times were checked, and so was mph. At the track. WOT, going for it.

One big rolling donut.

Made no difference.

10.6:1 long rod stroker NA, four barrel carter, dual dutra duals, 2-1/4" primary pipes, and lots of other mods. Seven seconds under stock.

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have noticed that on longer commutes and long trips the cold ram air really makes a difference in mileage and engine performance. Very consistent power
and spunk.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I was going to say perhaps 1/4th mile data may not be fine enough or carried out enough decimal points to expose any improvement where during a 100 or more mile trip the small incremental increase in efficiency adds up to something one can more easily measure.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

In My Findings Yes It Makes a Lot of Difference.

At Least .10 in the Quarter Mile on my car.

Not a Great Shot, But My approach on the Drag Car is Simple and Effective!



4" Drain Pipe Coupled to 5" aluminum HVAC Line for Bendabilty and Ease of Connection to the 4 Bbl Carb Air Filter Mounting.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

And I picked up allmost a.10 in the 1/8th from one week to the next,,,ONLY change.I can honestly say it can not hurt and will probably help.I do alot of things that cant hurt but might help.Like polishing my crank.Did it help?who knows.Do know it didnt hurt.Guzzi Mark