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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:04 pm 
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I assume the crank gear is seated fully onto the machined crank surface (plane perpendicular to the crank axis).

This just happened to me too, and I posted about it here. It was not the timing set but the crank and block match up. I tried 4 different kinds of timing sets (incl stock) and they all did the same thing.

I threw the crank gear on my lathe at work and chopped 0.055" off the back surface and now it is perfect.

Rick, if you want to bring it to PF, I could do it for you and mail back, or we could even do it on Sunday on your way home! Took about 10-15 min to do it. You will have to make a good measurement of the offset so we know how much to cut.

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:39 am 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
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Quote:
I assume the crank gear is seated fully onto the machined crank surface (plane perpendicular to the crank axis).
Yes it is seated well.

I will drop you a PM

Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:00 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Be careful with this. I seem to remeber that somebody, probably Barry Harrison did some machining to supposedly improve the allignment of a JP set and wound up having the chain break. The crank gear should snug up against the step on the crank but if that won't do it I would do more checking before doing any additonal machining. Try measuring the distance from the mounting surface to the teeth on the JP gears and compare it with some other double roller sets.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:18 pm 
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Thanks for the insight, Seymour. Hope to see you in a week for some Slanted hangout time!!

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 4:48 pm 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
Try measuring the distance from the mounting surface to the teeth on the JP gears and compare it with some other double roller sets.
Well, I used my last spare double roller gear set on Denny's truck so I don't have any to compare it to. But I do have a bone stock silent gear set, which I just installed and the same mis-alignment is there on them also. So I don't know that it is a problem with the JP timing set. I did measure the depth of the recess in the cam gear to the face that rides against the block and it is exactly the same at on both sets @ .185. So that depth puts the cam in the same location with both sets. As I look at it it seems to me that the cam location should be set by the cam gears face. And since both sets I have are the same they would appear to be right.
Also the crank can't move because it has a thrust bearing. So that leaves the shoulder that is machined on the crank that the lower gear sets against. Since I am not removing the crank I will just have Lou trim the back of the gear down to get the proper alignment. The actual measured mis-alignment is @ .095"

I am not sure how getting the gears lined up could cause a chain failure but I am certainly willing to listen and be taught. If anyone else has any thoughts on this please let me know.

Rick

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:40 pm 
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Measure the back of the new crank gear to back of that sprocket, compare to stock.

Richard

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:23 pm 
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Not sure I follow Richard? :?: :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:21 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Would flipping over the crank gear help at all?

(maybe timing mark is on wrong side)

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:23 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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How far from the inside end of the piece (the end that fits against the crank) to the back side of the gear. That is the part you are thinking of trimming, so you should find how much or if you even need to trim.

Richard

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 Post subject: Thrust Washer?
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:12 pm 
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I spoke with Will and he mentioned making sure the cam lobes were centered in the lifter bores. After I removed the head and took a look, it appears that the cam could be shifted about .020-.030 towards the front to have them centered. By doing that it does help the 2 gears alignment issues some.

My question is does anyone know where I can get a .020 -.030 thrust washer? ID needs to be 2" outside can be 2 1/2 -3" I didn't know if anyone had any shims from something that may fit? Maybe from a rear or something.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.70 @ 104.6
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 5:07 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Try www.mcmaster.com

search 'thrust washer'

quick search and I found 7 (depending on material) that are

2" ID
3" OD
.125" Thick


For thinner search

'shim washer'

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:26 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
You could put washers between the camshaft gear and block to align the gears where you want shifting the whole camshaft forward.

Then put some shims between the gear and the camshaft to shift the camshaft back where you want.

As long as the shims are thinner overall than the recess in the gear, everthing should be fine.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:35 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
You could put washers between the camshaft gear and block to align the gears where you want shifting the whole camshaft forward
Yes, that is my plan. I found exactly what I wanted to MacMaster Carr

Thanks ,

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
Image
12.70 @ 104.6
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:09 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
I also found this:

http://www.competitionplus.com/drag-rac ... -tool-set-


This easy-to-use tool set allows for quick and effortless measurements. Simply mark the cam lobe with a marking fluid such as machinist blue layout marker or dry erase marker, install the cam, and then place the tool in the lifter bore. Next, turn the cam over to mark a line around the cam lobe, and then remove the cam. Simply measure the distance from the edge of the lobe and change shims to achieve the correct lobe to lifter alignment. Safeguarding your camshaft is that simple with the Camshaft Lobe Center Marking Tool Set


My question is

What's the correct alignment?
You get a measurement, but I can't find a spec for this measurement anywhere.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:21 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
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Location: Indianapolis
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my first thought was that the lifter bore would be centered to the cam lobe,, i.e. the scribed line would be in the center of the lobe,, but then remembered that flat tappets need to spin as they wipe across the face of lobe,, and to do that they need to be slightly off center with respect to the lobe,,,,so
Quote:
What's the correct alignment?
is a good question..


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