i have been thinking of a build in my head for a while. i was thinking of getting a van, (i really like A108's) for camping. and my buddy is in a van club hunting beach Wheels of Confusion, and they are all bitchen 70's style vans, and all v8's pretty much, id like to be a little different with a slant6, and be able to pull a fully loaded long wheel base van no prob.

i was thinking having the crank welded and ground (unsure of how much i could get away with)
long rod with metric pistons ( i have a block .060 over that needs to be cut again )
stock intake/manifold gasket matched to heads
injection (megasquirt)
some sort of low end mild hydraulic cam

would a stroker/long rod work? i havnt found anything in searches or articles about combining the two

Check out Ceej's engine build, he did the long rod and I think his guy did a slight offset grind.

-D.Idiot

Not so much on the slight part! 4.475" stroke on 198 rods. The trick is piston selection. K1 rods are the way to go now. They weren't available when I built my engine.

Weld-up is how I went. Spendy. The info is in the Matrix.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

where do i find the thread

It is not a thread.....
Go to the Articles section and read Doc's article on stroking.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/stroking/stroking.htm

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Engine Matrix Build in the Engine FAQ section:
Cheers.

-D.Idiot

I am starting to work on a 4.5" stroke motor and will use the K1 7" rods. Yes, working out piston combo now. Should be a hoot at 10 psi and 260 cu in...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

is there a way to make this kind of combo very fuel mileage friendly? my plans are to keep it under 5k.. it will be in a large van after all. they do lots of runs and camping

For MPG... put a "small" cam it... and don't rev it high.
DD

I am interested in this build also. I would like a big slant 6 for my truck. I love showing the v8 guys what for but i'm gonna need to step up soon. I blew the head gasket in my "sad" 6 (as they call it) and am putting it back together but will be needing more power soon. looking for a 3/4 or 1 ton chassy to build upon and wanna keep my 6. gonna be a work/farm truck. any suggestions will be great but it looks like a slight variation to this build might be the key

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If you want to use a small cam for high torque build, do not cut the deck or build big compression. My DCR was through the roof running the RV15M RDP cam. Fortunately, it couldn't breath well enough to get adequate cylinder fill. A small cam really isn't the trick as far as mileage. A bit more fill is needed.
With the OCG 34 I was still seeing approximately 20 mpg in the car out on the road. The RV15M was approximately the same. This with a Carter 500 AFB.
I found that the Carter got approximately 3 mpg less out on the road than I got with the Holley four barrel. The Holley would lean better in cruise mode. Unfortunately, it was finicky as density altitude changed. Rejetting for various tracks was necessary.
With the Carter or Edelbrock, set it up and stop fussing with it.

The stroker ran out of wind with the Holley 390. It was obvious with the above build. It ran extremely hard with the Holley 500 2 bbl, but was just as untuneable in the midrange as any other small displacement engine. Even the Ford 300 guys can't run those things on the street. Violent launches at WOT though!
Your going to want a four bbl, 500 to 600 cfm. For a truck, I'd go with the Edelbrock 500 for that application. You can even buy one of the Edelbrocks remanufactured. Almost impossible for the Nimrods that reassemble parts in between hits on the crack pipe to screw up. Holley's on the other hand, can be royally messed up by all but the best of carb guys.

Torque characteristics are pretty impressive, but I'd keep the stroke down in the 4.440" range. You'll have a whole bunch less clearancing to do. My rod bolts cleared the pan rails by 0.010" prior to breaking out the die grinder. Your sleeves will need to be notched. This isn't a button it up and go engine. For the street, get a real Harmonic Balancer. Romac or similar. The heavier the better.
Punch the bore out at least 0.060" if you plan to use Ford 300 valves. The Toyota pistons I used were a 0.5mm overbore. Going to the 1.0mm over-bore cuts the cylinder to fit a 3.504" piston.
As always, bore the engine to the pistons. Don't just cut holes and hope the slugs you buy will fit. They won't. Bore to the piston that come in the box. There may be variations even within the set. If you have to purchase two four cylinder sets to get the pistons you want, this is much more likely. If your going with power adders of any sort, install forged. Cast should never be used in a boost or hose application. You might get away with it. For a while.
You asked for suggestions!

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Steve Nitti uses an offset ground crank to the Honda rod journal diameter(1.8898")in his blown Slant race car, so you could do some serious stroking like he did if you wanted to or do the welded stroker. Once you enter into this realm of mods, it can get expensive fast with either method of stroking a crank, each having its own advantages/disadvantages.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

For a Truck, keep as much overlap cross section in the crank as you can.
Cutting to smaller Journals will reduce the over-all strength of the crank. For a racing application, smaller journals are the cats hiney. Less friction and lighter weight in the reciprocating assembly.
There will be flexure in the crank, so nitriding of the journals of a stroker can be an excercise in futility. Any flexure in the journal area will result in the nitrided surface flaking off and loading up your bearings. Expect the crank to flex and twist. It does whether you realize it or not.

personally, I'd build a turbo with appropriate sizing and waste gate to bring it on early. Keep the stock configuration. Make your cubes with denser charge.
Building an engine for a street rig that it takes several weeks or months to get replacement parts for doesn't make sense to me. If I break something in the Hooptie, I've got a long wait, and/or some expensive machine work to do. For a race car, that doesn't matter so much. I don't depend on the Hooptie to get to work. For something needed to do work, get to work, or both, stick with over the counter parts where practical, or stick with a 1bbl to reduce the stress on parts.
Doug's Wagon is a 1bbl car. I'd trust that thing to take me through the desert during a wind storm. Come to think of it, it has!


2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30869

See the above thread for the stroker Dart wagon "playing on the playa"

An I agree, a 4.440 stroke saves you a lot of extra fitting & clearance work.
DD

Yeah, I'll have some grinding to do, but couldn't pass up the deal on the 4.5" crank. This last motor has lasted me since 1989 and 170,000+ miles, including 10k+ boosted, so I am not so worried about replacement parts. Maybe that old engine would never die, but I want to try something new. We'll see...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988