I'm gonna change the oil in my 63 Dart this weekend since it has only been changed once since 1984 and that was in 2001......looking for opinions on type and weight of oil and filter to use. I use Mobile 1 in my newest car and always ran Castrol in my older stuff but i'm always open to opinions when it comes to doing stuff to make this car last many more years. Filters i usually use Wix or Purolater.

I personally use Rotella T 15W40. I have about 67,700 miles and change every 2500-3000miles. I use K&N HP-3001 but it is rape are $13.99. I suggest something cheaper but not Fram.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Wix 51515 is a good filter at a reasonable price.

A good brand of 10w30 or 30 wt is acceptable. I would not use synthetic unless you have rebuilt the engine and have been using it religiously to this point.

-D.Idiot

Read the Widman's Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines

Unless your oil runs extremely hot, use a 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil. As you're in Georgia and ambient temperatures don't often fall below freezing, you can probably also use 15W-40 HDEO as well. See Chrysler Oil Recommendations. If you don't burn any oil, you can try a synthetic 0W-30 HDEO (like Mobil Delvac Elite 222).

I use Petro-Canada Duron but any of the major brands (like Shell Rotella) are fine. Since your engine probably has major sludge, it would probably be a good idea to change it more often, like when it starts to become thick. Make sure your crankcase ventilation system is in good working order while you're at it.

The 1975 chart is correct, but it lacks about 2 pages of do's, don'ts, alternate oil weights for other conditions not noted in the chart and the recommended oil change interval being 6 months or 5000 miles...

-D.Idiot

Why even change it,you will bee rebuilding it if you go that long between changes.If you are driveing it that long between changes I would bee embarassed.

With synthetics and decent filtration you can go quite a distance.

Time, however, is not your friend. Unless you live in a zero humidity climate, the oil will be unable to protect surfaces if the car just sits.

Can we hope you fired the engine up every couple of weeks and ran it until it warmed up? If not, you are likely looking at some maintenance work.

All those surfaces need to have a coating of oil to avoid rust and various forms of corrosion.

I've fired up engines that sat for a long time. The timing set was tight on initial inspection, and beyond shot after one heat cycle.

Don't let engines sit. If the engine is fine, when you fire it up every few weeks, put the transmission in neutral. In park, it won't pump.
Once it's warmed up in neutral, run it through the gears. move fluid. Better yet, drive it around the lot a bit. Move hypoid and grease about in all the other bits and pieces.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I would make sure your chosen oil has ZDDP in it .
If not add some.
i believe your camshaft will be happier.


There is some debate as to whether zddp or a lack of it can ruin cams and lifters.
I tend to err on the side of caution and make sure i use zddp oil ,as changing cams and lifters is not a trivial task.
I believe the need for zddp is more important for new cams/lifters with high pressure springs, the further away from new cam /high pressure springs ,the less need for zddp.
These are my opinions and others are expected to disagree.


see.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... y_how.aspx

and
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=317903#317903
Brendan.

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.

if you have seen my other post you would know the car has been parked since 2001, Thanks for being A smartass

thanks for all the replies

And you fired it up without changeing the oil.

I would be very careful about adding ZDDP supplements. Just to be clear, it is the phosphorus (P) component of ZDDP that provides that wear protection. Valvoline's "Not Street Legal" VR-1 Racing Oil contains 1300 ppm of P while their regular VR-1 Racing Oil contains 1200 ppm.
http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ (see Racing Oil FAQ #2)

A flat tappet valve train doesn't need much more than about 1200 ppm of phosphorus. The CI-4 rated HDEOs often had phosphorus contents of up to 1400 ppm as higher levels tend to increase wear. Phosphorus levels over 2000 ppm have a tendency to spalling. More ZDDP isn't necessarily better.
ZDDPlusâ„¢ Tech Brief #2
http://www.tribology-abc.com/poll/case07.htm

If you're going to add ZDDP, you need to first determine the P content of the oil and then calculate the correct amount of ZDDP to add to end up with your target P level. It's a lot easier and cheaper to just use an oil with sufficient ZDDP already blended in. Racing oils like Valvoline VR-1 contain enough ZDDP and so do HDEOs. However, HDEOs also have stronger detergent additive packages unlike racing oils which were never meant to stay in the crankcase very long.